cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/10462005

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/10462000

ProtonUp-Qt is an essential tool to help you install and manage GE-Proton, Luxtorpeda, Wine-GE and more for Steam, Heroic and Lutris for Linux desktop and Steam Deck.

But why would you need it? Well, sometimes Valve's official Proton doesn't work well with a game, so you need GE-Proton. If you want to easily play third-party upgraded game engines for some classic Steam games like OpenMW for Morrowind or OpenXcom for X-COM and so on (see my previous article) you can use Luxtorpeda and so on.

Version 2.9.1 was just released and here's what's new:

    Added a Shortcut Editor for Steam.
    Dxvk-Async: Use Ph42oN's releases instead of Sporif's.
    NorthstarProton: Use the R2NorthstarTools repo instead of the cyrv6737 repo.
    Wine-GE: Match extract folder name (see PR #296 for details).
    Allow configuring GitHub/GitLab access tokens in the ProtonUp-Qt configuration file (see #161 (comment)).
    Various i18n, UI and UX enhancements. 

How to install ProtonUp-Qt?

It's available on Flathub or using your favourite app store (like Discover on KDE Plasma / Steam Deck Destop Mode). Alternatively download the AppImage:

Download the ProtonUp-Qt AppImage.
Mark the AppImage as executable (either using your file manager or using the Terminal: chmod +x ProtonUp-Qt*.AppImage).
Double-click the AppImage to run ProtonUp-Qt.

Anyone have a thought about why? Also Plex htpc non steam app won't launch suddenly. If I go to desktop mode they work fine

I don't do much handheld gaming, but I'm going to have some overseas flights and long-ish train rides later this year, and may also be having surgery that will keep me fairly bedbound for about a month. I'm just not sure how much money it's worth spending on a deck that I likely won't use much outside of those specific cases - I bought a switch when I got covid in 2020 and used it a ton at the time but I've only used it a few times since, though I miiight use a deck a bit more just because I already have a pretty extensive steam library.

Is it better to stick to the cheapest model or is there enough of a difference that it might be worth spending a little more for a nicer one?

TL;DW:

• Annotated die shot of the 7 nm AMD Van Gogh by Fritzchens Fritz (https://www.flickr.com/photos/130561288@N04/, which has additional photos)
• Van Gogh in the Steam Deck contains a disabled 14 core computer vision IP block, possibly DSP from Tensilica. It therefore appears die-identical to the Mero APU for the Magic Leap VR HMD.

Note that the similarity/difference Van Gogh vs. Mero was spotted a year ago in data tables, not via die shots. And reports at the time erred in both the code names and the degree of die-similarity (https://videocardz.com/newz/amd-mero-low-power-zen2-rdna2-apu-has-spotted-running-android-os-for-magic-leap-ar-headset).

Has anyone played Farthest Frontier on Steam Deck? Wondering if it's playable and worth it. I've watched countless hours of gameplay and absolutely love it.

I have a USB-C hub that has an NVMe slot built in and offers USB-PD power passthrough. My intention had been to use that hub to dual boot Windows from a 2TB NVMe so I could run native Gamepass and Genshin Impact on my Steam Deck, while keeping the majority of that drive formatted to share games between SteamOS and Windows, but it seems that any time the device changes power states the NVMe drive is disconnected and reconnected as part of the process.

This is problematic enough when I start Windows from the NVMe SSD in the enclosure connected to power, things work fine until the Steam Deck reaches full charge and the USB-PD is renegotiated so as to run things from the charger rather than continually topping up the battery. Windows dies immediately because the disk briefly goes away and comes right back. So fine, I just don't start my Deck with the hub connected unless the Steam Deck is fully topped off and problem solved?

That's all fine and well, but it becomes unbearable when I use my fancy 120w charging brick that offers multiple USB ports to power/charge multiple devices which charger renegotiates every device plugged in whenever any device is added, removed, or changes power states. If my Kindle Fire hits full charge while I'm playing on my deck, the connection to the NVMe storage is killed and anything with files open from the drive takes a dump. This happens in Windows and in SteamOS.

I've used the same NVMe drive in several different external enclosures hooked up via USB-A, with several different USB chargers (all 65w or higher,) all through the same hub that has the NVMe slot built in, through a fancier Lenovo hub, and a through a cheap $20 number from Amazon; all of the hubs have USB-PD passthrough and no matter what the setup it seems like no drive will stay connected in any arrangement if the power delivery situation changes in any way.

The question then is this: What is responsible for this behavior?

Is the Steam Deck uniquely unable to keep data connections open while power delivery is renegotiated, are all 3 of the hubs I have botching things and another hub would allow this behavior I desire, or is this normal for the USB spec and it's just not possible to have a reliable data connection going during a USB-PD state change? I've been unable to find any answers searching the Internet, so if you've got an authoritative source on the answer to my question, I'd love to see it and know if I should just give up on my dream or if there's a solution somewhere.

Has anyone figured out a good solution to remote wake a PC from the Steam Deck? Seems silly this wasn't baked into the UI, considering this could be done from the Steam Link hardware back in the day.

I just received my Steam Deck OLED 1Tb; the screen is amazing in relation to the LCD version, however I had a problem with the D-PAD not working at all.

I did some testing, and the D-PAD was unresponsive in Gaming Mode, Desktop, and in the BIOS as well, so I figured something wrong with my hardware.

I removed the back panel, and I saw almost instantly that the cable labeled as "DPAD" was disconnected(Right side, just beside the left trigger). Reconnected and now everything is working as intended.

So for short, if something doesn't work hardware wise, contact support, but it may be worth having a look inside and see if anything is disconnected.

Happy Gaming 🎮

Anyone would be so kind to allow me to use my steam deck to connect to my PSN account on your PS5 for remote play? I’m not getting a PS5. After hearing how they treat their customers thus far. It’s not good at all.

Direct link to the YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GQkpJ1qPUVA