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That is, until one brave Neapolitan pizzaiolo, or pizza maker, recently introduced his own version, triggering a heated national debate, TV coverage and "taboo breaking" headlines.

Dressed in minimalist black and bold-framed eyewear, Sorbillo looks more like the head of a Milan fashion house than the third-generation owner of a family-run Neapolitan pizza chain.

A consummate innovator in the kitchen, Sorbillo says curiosity propelled him to determine whether it was the pineapple per se that was the problem on pizza, or the misguided pairing of ham and cheese with the fruit.

For three months, he experimented with different ingredients and ways to prepare the pineapple before settling on the recipe for pizza all'ananas, as it's called in Italian, now on the menu of the family restaurants throughout Italy.

The ubiquitous red fruit introduced into Italy from South America in the 16th century, he explains, is a redundant acidic element that clashes with pineapple, as any Italian will tell you.

Out on the street, the manager of Atri Osteria and Pizzeria around the corner from the Sorbillo establishments hands out flyers for his joint — and makes it loud and clear what he thinks of the new tropical kid on the block.

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