3DPrinting
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
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I ran the printer's pre-sliced 12-minute benchy with cheap Geeetech PLA filament, and it didn't come out great, but then realised that when I'd removed the nozzle clog that was there from the factory (apparently they test some nozzles during QA, so mine had some dregs of filament with a lump that needed a cold pull to shift it) I'd accidentally plugged one of the part cooling fans into the wrong header and it wasn't running. After fixing that, it came out much better than what you've got here, despite a pause part way through due to trying to do it with the tail end of a roll.
I've read that the throat cooling isn't great for PETG as the fan as it draws warm air from inside the toolhead shroud, and there's an alternative one on printables that avoids this problem (although a duct to isolate the fan and its cutout in the shroud from the rest of the shroud interior might be simpler), so that could be related as you're running PETG.
Thanks for the lead! That might be it, I saw a big blob of goop leaking from it the first time I heated it. I'll rebuild the hotend when I have time. There an extra nozzle in the kit.
Edit:
Here is a comparison between an old benchy done with my Ender-3 and three with the SV-08. The surface finish with the Ender 3 is much more consistent and the PETG is a lot shinier. Maybe speed is a factor too. Shoud I try and slow the SV08 down a notch?
I've definitely noticed less shininess than the same filament was getting at the same temperatures on my previous printer, except for the first layer. As the first layer prints without part cooling, my guess is that the extra part cooling versus the other printer means it's setting before it's had time to self-level. If that's right, then turning down the part cooling (and then also the speed so you can get away with the reduced part cooling) would make things shiny again. I've not bothered investigating that, as most of what I print is either functional, where I wouldn't care about shininess, or gets painted, where any shininess would come from paint or clearcoat.