3DPrinting
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: or !functionalprint@fedia.io
There are CAD communities available at: !cad@lemmy.world or !freecad@lemmy.ml
Rules
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No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
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Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
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No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
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No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
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Do not create links to reddit
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If you see an issue please flag it
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No guns
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No injury gore posts
If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe/ may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is ![](URL)
Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible
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@mooklepticon
I think my Z-offset is too high and I'm compensating it with temperature, but I don't care - nozzle cleans itself well, prints well and even structure is good.
When it works, don't touch it 😀
I generally print first layer at 260/250 and the latter ones 10 degrees colder. I do the same with the build plate - starting with 90, and leaving it at 80 throughout the ret of the print. With some plates you have to bee mindful of PETG sticking too well (possibly damaging them) but it works out really well with PET/PEO plates, letting the print retain the texture of the build plate. On PEI I either print it cooler, or use glue (in this case it makes it easier to separate the print from the plate).
@spitfire When I fine-tuned my settings I got a lot of stringing until I reached 225°C for some reason. Maybe it's vendor-specific 😀
Maybe you should try thoroughly drying it, that helps a lot with PETG.