3DPrinting
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: or !functionalprint@fedia.io
There are CAD communities available at: !cad@lemmy.world or !freecad@lemmy.ml
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If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe/ may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is 
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Not OP, but I have a printer (Ender 3 v2 Neo) with a z-probe that when you tell it to autolevel, it sets the bed and nozzle target temperatures to 0°. (As in, turns both heating elements off.) That's on the manufacturer's stock firmware. Even if you preheat before autoleveling, by the time it's done leveling, it's much cooler. So autoleveling hot is sometimes not an option.
All that said, I've never had anything like the issues OP has on my Ender 3 v2 Neo. But maybe OP has a bigger bed and that might make a difference as to whether autoleveling on a cold bed could cause OP's issue.
Why I stopped buy Creality printers. And the features that never arrived. heating beds are coils under aluminum, so the plate will differentially expand when heated. Measuring the mesh cold is a waste ot time.
You say that, but it's a hell of a lot better than nothing. I remember the days of not having no Z-probe on my other printer and not being able to use more than (generously) a 3"x3" square of my 8"x8" bed without really bad bed adhesion issues and no amount of manual leveling would help. Even on the aforementioned Ender 3 V2 Neo, I almost never have bed adhesion issues. My estimation of my experience is that leveling a cold bed is about 97.5% as helpful as leveling the bed hot.