3DPrinting
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: or !functionalprint@fedia.io
There are CAD communities available at: !cad@lemmy.world or !freecad@lemmy.ml
Rules
-
No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
-
Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
-
No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
-
No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
-
Do not create links to reddit
-
If you see an issue please flag it
-
No guns
-
No injury gore posts
If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe/ may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is 
Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible
view the rest of the comments
I've never actually needed primer to paint PLA unless the paint I was using was terrible, and wouldn't have stuck to the primer very well, either. Tamiya's acrylics have been entirely issue-free for me, both with a brush, or thinned and airbrushed, and they're not that expensive, but I've also had acceptable results with random fifteen-year-old tubes of really cheap acrylics that were sold more as a children's toy than a serious paint (although a lot of these tubes had gone bad in that time) and with Humbrol and Revel acrylics and enamels (although their acrylics come in pots that don't seal very well, so it's not that uncommon for them to be already cured when you first open them - if you're buying liquid acrylics for model painting, Tamiya is a better choice).