Bronzie

joined 2 years ago
[–] Bronzie@sh.itjust.works 1 points 4 days ago

Are you streaming to a Chromecast, by any chance? Or a older Galaxy device?
The 4k Chromecast with Google TV does not support AV1, but the 1080p version does. Jellyfin tried Direct Playing AV1 files, which obviously went poorly.

I run the same CPU in my NUC as you do, and all data is on a NAS shared with NFS. It's been absolutely bulletproof for about a year, so I'm confident you should be able to make this work.

Any other containers running at the same time?
No cooling issues?

Just asking because mine dropped massively in temp when repasted.

[–] Bronzie@sh.itjust.works 2 points 1 week ago

I disagree, but not just to disagree.

AMS is still very useful for having hazzle free filament swaps, keeping the filament dry and with the AMS 2 even drying the filament.
If all you do is multimaterial or multicolour, then sure, INDX/Snapmaker/Vortek is amazing for time and cost saving, but most people at home will never ever be able to reach a volume of poop where it makes financial sense to pay the premium.
The Snapmaker is obviously an exception, but it sacrifices both build volume and a heated chamber to achieve the <1k price.

95% of what I do is mono colour, so the ocational toy for the kids with 200g of poop for a 50g part is worth the trade.

People also severely underestimate the WAF (Wife Acceptance Factor) for many of us. If my missus has to tinker more than 15 seconds before a print, I recieve the brunt if her frustration. It’s quite probable that all these tool-/hotend-swap systems will require some love as well. RatRig’s IDEX and Prusa XL have had many experienced people giving up.

I think this topic is highly subjective and personally just ordered the H2S. Quick math showed me I needed >75 rolls of pure poop before the H2D would make sense, and H2C will cost even more. I’d rather look at these systems down the line when more quirks have been ironed out.

[–] Bronzie@sh.itjust.works 3 points 1 month ago (1 children)

I really have no clue.
It looks like a cool system, but I also think they might be rushing it to have a reply to the U1.
Will it work well from the get go?
How long does it take to change filament and hotend?
Will mis-alignment stop prints often, as things get worn?

They also cannot possibly price it lower that the H2D, as it is the same printer with more tech.
Prusa has also more or less confirmed to be releasing the INDX-system soon, which seems like a smarter system to me.

If it turns out as polished as Bambu often do and not to expensive (sub 3k), then it will demolish the competition. I’m happy we all get to be a part of the insane development race going on these days.

Also: if Prusa wants to compete, they have to offer a heated chamber and decent camera as standard. I still can’t fathom how they dared to release the Core One without.
I’m willing to pay quite a bit more for European made, but not if it feels like a complete rip-off.

[–] Bronzie@sh.itjust.works 2 points 1 month ago (1 children)

Yeah, I think it's very clever, but like you say it will be interesting to see how the system fairs outside a lab environment over time.
And even if it does work flawlessly, there is no way they will price it lower than the H2D which is already outside what I consider reasonable for sporadic home use.

If all my dreams come true, the competition heats up and they end up dumping the prices over the board.
Realistically though, I'll keep an eye on the H2S over the next few months and see if people have issues with it before I give away even more of my hard earned money.

[–] Bronzie@sh.itjust.works 11 points 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) (4 children)

I'm thinking more and more that this is a semi-rushed response to Snapmaker having insane success on KS with their U1, more than a goodwill gesture from BL, tbh.

I also struggle seeing the true point of it, depending on what the price ends up being.
Let's say it lands at 2500-3000€. The H2S will have higher print speed (lighter gantry), fewer movable parts and a thoroughly tested hot end setup at 1150€ without AMS.
1500€ in poop is going to take most people a lifetime to produce, not considering the advanced Vortek system needing maintenance. That's like 75 full 1 kg rolls of pure poop if you pay 20€ for each.
It will also require at least two AMS units to function fully, both of which are proprietary and useless the day you buy another branded machine.
If you don't need a heated chamber or the increased print size, you can get away with the P-series for even less money.

Add the closed ecosystem to the mix, and I can't really see any viable reason to wait for the H2C at all...
Am I just being dumb here? I'd genuinely like to know

[–] Bronzie@sh.itjust.works 1 points 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) (1 children)

I'll admit never having used Lidarr, but if it's dead and no other good automated software exists, I'll just use the good old "search and click download"-hack.

Hopefully I won't ever have to do this, but time will tell

[–] Bronzie@sh.itjust.works 2 points 1 month ago

Thanks mate, but the only way to fix it would be to have Windows as the prio boot OS, which just hurts too much hehe.

I'd rather sit and wait and choose it manually after updating.

[–] Bronzie@sh.itjust.works 8 points 1 month ago (3 children)

Spot on!

The moment music starts being split up between companies is the day I start pirating music again too.
My NAS and media NUC have soon paid for themselves from saving on streaming services. Adding music to it won't cost me a dime.

[–] Bronzie@sh.itjust.works 8 points 1 month ago (6 children)

Also had issues with dual booting until I removed the Linux drives when installing Windows to make sure the boot partition was created on a separate drive.
Zero issues since.

Biggest downside is Windows always rebooting after updates, and if I don't sit there, it boots back into Linux as it's the first option in Grub.

At least now I have the option to fire up Windows when I can't solve something in Mint.

[–] Bronzie@sh.itjust.works 1 points 1 month ago

You've already gotten a lot of really good advice, but I'll add what I did on TL to get >10 ratio in about a year, without really limiting what I download.

For movies, I focused on finding files >14 GB so they are freelech. For movies I really wanted in super high quality to enjoy, I chose torrents with fewer seeds. This both boosts my points gain and lets me upload more when someone else wants the same file.
My best ratio files are several 70+ GB 4k Remuxes.

For TV Shows, I downloaded complete seasons as they are always freelech, unless it was a show I really want to watch right away.
These days I just add it to Sonarr and let it rip.

It goes without saying that you keep seeding everything for as long as you can. I have several hundred, some people have thousands.

Make sure you start with freeleech content to build a small buffer so you don't get warnings that stress you out. It sucks frantically trying to get your ratio up before some timer ends and you get banned.

Feel free to ask if you need some more help, and enjoy TL. It's a really good site run by what seems to be very level headed people.

[–] Bronzie@sh.itjust.works 11 points 1 month ago (3 children)

Yes once, and it was at the ending of "Brothers: A tale of two sons".
I bawled my eyes out.

Small game, but absolutely recommend for anyone that wants to clear out their tear canals.

[–] Bronzie@sh.itjust.works 1 points 1 month ago

I don't know why it wouldn't be, as they are great products out of the box.
A bit pricy, but worth it. I'd give the same recommendation as you for anyone wanting to dabble a little and have room to grow and play with VLAN's, ACL's and expandability in the future.

 

I just did my very first TPU print after years of printing PLA and PETG, and I've gotta say: That stuff sticks like a mofo on the textured PEI plate..!!
The print turned out great and the default profile in BS needed very little tweaking.
I'm currently using Fiberology MattFlex 40D.

What do you guys use to ease the removal?
I've seen normal glue sticks, IPA and liquid glue made for 3D printing, but I figured it would be cool to ask the fine people here.

If you do use glue: Do you stick with a smooth PEI or maybe something else?

All feedback is appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

25
submitted 4 months ago* (last edited 4 months ago) by Bronzie@sh.itjust.works to c/3dprinting@lemmy.world
 

Finally added some more lights to the P1S. Relay controlled from USB-A port.

Trickier than I thought as the original light seems to be controlled by a NPN transistor which threw me off when using the 0V from the USB-A. Feel free to ask if you want to know how to do this yourself without risking burning your board.

Huge upgrade for very little money.

(Yes, I need to dust my top cover!!)

Edit: converted to .GIF for convenience

42
submitted 4 months ago* (last edited 4 months ago) by Bronzie@sh.itjust.works to c/linux_gaming@lemmy.world
 

I've been rocking the original Acer X34 since 2014 and feel like upgrading again. Specifically the AW3423DWF tickles my fancy, but I'm struggling to decide whether or not it is worth it on Mint without HDR support.

I've only been running Linux for about a year and have gotten quite comfortable with Mint, but see that I'd need to change distro if I want to use the Plasma DE, which is the only (?) one with decent HDR support at the moment?

Do any of you run HDR capable monitors in Linux?
If yes: is it worth the purchase even if I stick to SDR mode or would you recommend re-rolling distro to get support today?
If I change it up, I'm looking at Fedora.

Thanks in advance!

 

I'm tinkering with our ventilation over-pressure function in combination with an inline fan I run when 3D printing or soldering, to get the fumes and particulates out while simultaneously not creating a massive vacuum inside. The plan is to control it with MQTT from HA to a PLC that controls the ventilation via RS-485.

Therefore I'm looking for a simple but clean looking smart plug that I can integrate with HA to let me know when the fan is on (pulling power, actual wattage is irrelevant) to automatically enable this function.

I know Sonoff makes some, but I always prefer personal advice over random search results.
Preferably Zigbee or WiFi (offline) as I don't have any Matter/Z-wave hub/dongle. Compact design and black would be nice, but not a must. Stability and ease of setup matters more than added functionality.

Does anyone have any personal experience to share?
I'm grateful if you do. Thanks!

 

I’m strugling a bit making it work as intended.
I set it up to push straight to Sonarr/Radarr and it works, but my ratio on everything is still bad. I’m guessing something is taking time, making me lose out on the initial swarm.

My connection is wired Gbit.

It’s not really a problem as I seed forever and have a great ratio, but I still want it to function or at least understand why it doesn’t.

Appreciate any advice!

 

Does anyone know if it exists and is active?

Looking to join alternative quality trackers and I’m trying to avoid Reddit.

Not asking for invites, just help being there once it opens up.

Preferably with some sort of freeleech rules to get going as I hate the initial hustle, downloading random stuff to build a buffer. My NAS is running 24/7 so seeding is not an issue anyways.

Would also like to hear your experiences and recomendations on trackers. Currently active on TL and very happy with them.

Cheers!

 

Morning Gentlepeople.

As a coffee newbie I am having some small issues while trying to improve my game. I have a Oracle Touch and subscrube to a local monthly coffee delivery, so my beans change weekly.

My issue is that the grind setting is incredibly different from bean to bean. With my last bag, grind 14 gave a perfect 1:2,5 ratio. With a different bean today, I had to discard two cups before learning that grind size 3 gave me the same ratio. 14 gave me 1:3,5 which tasted rubbish.

The problem is that I got channeling and very little crema.

I guess the questions are: do different beans require completely different ratios or am I doing something very wrong?
Should I accept a very high ratio to avoid channeling on certain beans?
Or should my timer be lower on certain beans?

Thanks in advance for any help and have a great cup this morning!

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