I have this exact same problem, but with a Chevy bolt. Some cars USB ports are "always on" and some aren't. Might be worth trying different ones and see if there's a port that doesn't power on randomly. This didn't work on my car, but it's a common solution I came across when I was trying to figure it out. For now, I've just reverted back to wired AA.
Duallight
joined 1 year ago
The yacht was a bad example. What I'm getting at is that not hating something is not the same as supporting it. I don't support Dave doing this, but I don't hate him for doing it either.
Yeah, I can see how it could be seen that way. I'm thinking more along the lines of "Dave performs for money. Someone wants to pay a lot of money for a special performance, and it doesn't affect any of his other shows so of course he would do it". IMO what Dave did isn't unethical, but I can see how it could be seen that way. But I also think if the article was "Amazon Execs bought a multi million dollar yacht after massive layoffs", no one would be blaming the yacht manufacturer. Just the execs.
It's not a "worse" display. It's a different display. The only point is that if you want an e-ink phone (either for readability or battery life) this is one of the only options. Assuming it actually launches at least.
I know with the v4 tesla chargers that has the adapter built in, non-teslas couldn't use them until the manufacturers made an agreement. Maybe it's the same here? Where you can get an adapter and if your car brand has already made the deal with tesla you're good to go. Unless Ford put software in their adapter to only work on ford's.
There's F3. I've never used it but it looks decent. https://www.linuxbabe.com/command-line/f3-usb-capacity-fake-usb-test-linux
This post made me try again to find a solution, and maybe a USB extension cord with a on/off switch could work. It's not automated but would be more convenient than removing the dongle each time. I'm thinking something like this