HumanPenguin

joined 1 year ago
[–] HumanPenguin@feddit.uk 1 points 1 day ago

These are the desiccant containers I am printing now, in PETG. Less pretty, but I think they are more functional.

https://www.printables.com/model/50375-desiccant-silica-hygrometer-spool-container-modula

[–] HumanPenguin@feddit.uk 1 points 1 day ago* (last edited 1 day ago) (1 children)

Ok So I now have the 3d printer up and working. ( yeah, slow for obvious reasons )

Pics below.

Basically, I'm printing stuff for the printer to gain skills. PVA to start, I printed a Bowden tube adapter. Mainly so I can run filament directly from the dryer when using hygroscopic stuff. https://www.printables.com/model/983043-elegoo-neptune-4-pro-bowden-tube-spool-holder-moun

Also, printer a few of these desiccant holders. But in PLA they seem to shatter easy when tightening the lid. So I'm printing another design in PETG ATM

I need to add a vent to the tent pefore trying to play with Nylon. So thats my next task. Just need to workout something.

[–] HumanPenguin@feddit.uk 22 points 1 day ago (1 children)

Yeah, and men who support women's right. Need to support this as well.

Seriously, look at recent events in Texas. Having sex with women while republicans are in power. It is a potential death sentence for those women.

Unless you can groove beyond doubt, one off you is infertile. And honestly, given the way some republicans are. Only trust your own eyes on the microscope when checking. Because forcing doctors to lie to women is far from beyond some of these people.

Honestly, leaving the US for a more liberal nation is the only safe option the way things are looking.

[–] HumanPenguin@feddit.uk 2 points 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago) (1 children)

Desiccant is used a lot in boats. ( in the uk at least where damp is an issue )

But is a different way to 3d printers. It's more about directing condensation.

My thought is to build desiccant holders to mount near the boat windows. (not sure your location if you dont know narrowboat, So ill describe the issue)

My boat was built in the 1970s so is currently single glazed. We plan to do a complete rebuild of the inside and the glazing. But poor again so time.

This design tends to mean condensation builds up hugely on the windows. As the whole design of a steel boat leads to temp differences and the UK has high humidity. More so at water level of course.

The issue is the condensation then runs down from the windows along the wooden panels inside the boat. Doing huge damage over the years. One of the big reason owning a boat is costly. There is constant maintainance and replacement work. Im good at the electrics. But my younger brother dose most of the woodwork.

A common solution is to have a desiccant container with a water catcher below it positioned near the windows. This effectively absorbs some of the humidity before in condensates on the windows. Then, as the Desiccant overloads, releases it into the catcher.

You then need to empty the catcher and replace/dry the desiccant often. And honestly, it still just reduces the issue.

You can buy holders to do his. Sold for boats and caravans etc. But honestly they tend to be a bit universal, so not actually very usable.

Part of me thinks I can design a 3 part system that can be mounted. Have a drip pipe leading directly to the bilge rather than running down the walls. Then have slot in desiccant units that can be carried home and back and microwaved as we swap over.

[–] HumanPenguin@feddit.uk 1 points 1 week ago

well, ill have the printer together tonight. Will likly print some petg experiments tonight/tomorrow. The some cable chains etc to get practice.

[–] HumanPenguin@feddit.uk 1 points 1 week ago (2 children)

Sorta inpressed you remembered my dull questions at all.

[–] HumanPenguin@feddit.uk 2 points 1 week ago (4 children)

Some corrections.

The boat and the workshop are separate. My brother and I share a 25ft x 6ft10inch narrowboat. We tend to travel over spring and summer swapping over as we move it around the UK.

The tiny area I scanned (not well) was the engine room as it is under tge rear deck so low down small and cannot like many boats be opened from the top.

Hence the need to measure things to layout access.

The workshop is in my 2 bed home. So less crowded.

It is cool that you remember the stuff. When the boat is done I'll def share pics. But my mobility and costs mean its likely to be a year or 2 before all is done.

[–] HumanPenguin@feddit.uk 4 points 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago)

Most of the stuff is together. (obtained wise) Mounting etc is a big part of the 3d printer. But likely after the engine room.

The smaller pie is planned to manage the solar dump. along with a diesal air to water heater (Bobil Van) Linked in but only temp shut off via the pie.

All the mounting etc comes after the bilge and engin electronics.

Likely early 26 for finisjh given our mobility. (edit: and poverty, that's the bit that takes longest:)

Thanks for remembering

32
submitted 1 week ago* (last edited 1 day ago) by HumanPenguin@feddit.uk to c/3dprinting@lemmy.world
 

EDIT: Update and pic in comments:

Hey folks. I posted a while back asking for some advice on a future purchase.

To sum up. My brother and I are visually impaired and retired through that.

We have purchased a tiny 25ft narrowboat between us we use to travel around the UK.

And as our vision is getting worse (we will likely lose it eventually). I have some major electrical work planed this year to make thing easy for us to maintain.

So I was looking for advice on nylon printing. Yep it has to be nylon. Because some of this stuff needs to sit over the tiny hot engine plus alternator and survive diesel splashes amd bilge water etc while supporting electronics.

But some here also pointed out petg will work when. The heat is less high. So thanks.

This is just an update that i have just had the printer etc delivered.

I have a Neptune 4 pro with a tent and vent system to keep temprature and fumes safe stable.

I have a 70c filament dryer and plan to print Descicant hokder to be placed in spools with lids that hold hydrometers. This and some vacuum bags should allow storing the petg and nylon easyer. Then Microwaving the stuff when the meters are above 25%

Also those desicant holders look worth adapting somehow for the boat.

So now I need to replan my workshop to make setting all this up and using it easy vision wise. That will take a good few days.

This is basically a thank you for your help in the past and a "Hi ill be posting the mess I make learning how to get this workjng over the next few months. "

Thanks guys all the best

[–] HumanPenguin@feddit.uk 3 points 1 week ago

Lol

I'll go hide my shame

[–] HumanPenguin@feddit.uk 2 points 1 week ago

Honestly, If it is ever made to work. A mobile/robotic 3d printer would be a huge step forward. Solving the issue of levelling on more random surfaces, IE all existing surfaces. Plus the Issue of moving heat stability with different plastics. It all sounds doable in an open design way. But hugely complex and in need of this type of nutcase to start it off.

But the advantages it would give to home-maker like design would be freaking huge once things become well understood. Adding already developing multi mateial heads etc.

As I have said elsewhere. Never underestimate the value of someone insane enough to try and make dumb shit work. Almost everything we depend on started from someone thinking the most insane idea would be fun to try.

[–] HumanPenguin@feddit.uk 3 points 1 week ago (3 children)

I'm going to assume you decided the extra weight may improve vacuuming in some limited situation.

But thanks for leaving the correction to make me wonder for a while. Made your comment almost enjoyable.

 

Sorry, this is not really 3d printing related. But as we have some cool folks here OS wise. I hopped you could help or point me the correct way.

As I have mentioned before my brother and I own a tiny narrow boat we are doing up.

The engine room is a nightmare. 4ft high with no top access. We are disabled (visual and flexibility basically old can't bend and classed as blind but some vision. ) So we have difficulty measuring exact space in a room we have to crawl through. Well it's very like Star Trek Jeffries tubes but greasy. ;)

We need to plan and mount electronics in there to support our use. (I sought advice on printing to help with this a while back and got fantastic help)

I am now starting to think having a 3d model of the engine room would make working out the layout much easier. So here is where advice is needed.

We are skint (poor for the US) so spending 1000s ain't an option. And likely not worth it anyway.

I have heard of android apps that use photographs. And that level of accuracy is likely fine for our planning needs.

But I'm a Linux 100% user. Since the late 90s So need some way to do this that can be done on Linux and fed into FreeCAD and or Blender.

Does anyone know much about tools in this space. And what the process for doing this with photographs is?

33
submitted 4 months ago* (last edited 4 months ago) by HumanPenguin@feddit.uk to c/linux@lemmy.ml
 

Hi. I've not really used Windows since the early 2000. Even then not much.

I have a single mini PC with windows on. And use it only for device firmware updates. As a ham radio nerd. You get many devices that can only be modified via windows.

Anyway it was set up with dual boot the normal way. Windows first as it came with it. Then make a real Linux partition to use the PC on my boat while travelling.

Now the issue is I am upgrading the Mini PC. Basically replacing memory and the tiny 128gb ssd. So need to install it all from scratch.

I have order a copy of windows 11 from ebay. (At a price I consider acceptable for the crap)

But its going to take several days to arrive. And I would like to be more efficient.

So I am hoping folks can advice me on the best way to set up the PC with Linux first then install Windows 11 later. Knowing windows has a habit of messing up grub etc.

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