Natoochtoniket

joined 10 months ago
[–] Natoochtoniket@alien.top 1 points 10 months ago

The hard part is outside. Needs to be weather tight. Use a conduit through the wall, into a weather tight junction box on the outside. For each cable, open a hole in the junction box and install a "cable gland". A cable gland is a device that seals around a cable, fits through a drilled hole with a rubber washer, and is weather tight. They sell lots of them on amazon.

Inside, you just have to make it pretty.

[–] Natoochtoniket@alien.top 1 points 10 months ago

There is rather a lot of language in the NEC on the subject of residential lighting and light switches. Here is the main part of it:

NEC 210.70(A)(1) Habitable Rooms. At least one wall switch–controlled lighting outlet shall be installed in every habitable room, kitchen, and bathroom. Exception No. 1: In other than kitchens and bathrooms, one or more receptacles controlled by a wall switch shall be permitted in lieu of lighting outlets.

Accordingly, people expect the light switches to be present, and to control the lights. That is a reasonable expectation. So I use smart switches for the switch-controlled lighting, and the switch over-rides the automation. If a guest operates a switch, the light must behave as expected.

A switched outlet is allowed, instead of or in addition to a ceiling fixture. And, where a lamp is plugged into the switched outlet, it is still allowed to turn the lamp off manually. But the wall switch must be present, and must control some kind of lighting outlet (either a fixture or an outlet). And, it is usual (though not required) to leave the lamp turned on.

All of this is actually about safety, not just design. Without lights, people trip and fall. I don't want my guests getting injured in my house. So I make sure there is light, and that the conventional controls do work.