Synthead

joined 1 year ago
[–] Synthead@lemmy.ml 1 points 1 year ago

Just discovered this also. I'm out. What a disappointment.

[–] Synthead@lemmy.ml 1 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago)

It looks like sonarr is not in the official Ubuntu mirrors. The website mentions adding a new repo to apt. Is this what you did, or something else?

https://sonarr.tv/#downloads-v3-linux

[–] Synthead@lemmy.ml 1 points 1 year ago

Also, how are you starting it? I'm looking at the Arch package in the AUR (not your distro, but just looking), and I notice that it includes a .service file. This means that it would be started as a service, and not as a user, like you're probably attempting to do.

[–] Synthead@lemmy.ml 1 points 1 year ago

What directory is it trying to write to? Can you show us the full error, preferably as text and not a screenshot?

[–] Synthead@lemmy.ml 2 points 1 year ago (3 children)

What happens when you try to start it?

[–] Synthead@lemmy.ml 2 points 1 year ago (6 children)

What did you download?

[–] Synthead@lemmy.ml 15 points 1 year ago (2 children)

If this is expected and everything is peachy, then why does Instacart say to not give the receipt to the customer? You don't see this as something to hide?

[–] Synthead@lemmy.ml 24 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) (2 children)

Some printers detect when cartridges have been refilled by the user and are programmed to stop working then.

This is absurd. I would like to hear how this benefits the consumer without attempting to talk about "quality" or something. This would be like my car not starting cause I didn't use Shell gas.

What's more upsetting is that printers are client side all the way. There is nothing about them that needs to reach out to the Internet to print pages. The printer itself handles the "letting you print." So the thing sitting on your desk, that you own, is choosing this for you.

[–] Synthead@lemmy.ml 6 points 1 year ago (2 children)

I agree. That would be absurd.

However, I don't like not having the option of using HTTP if I want to use it. It's okay if the webserver redirects me, but I don't like if my browser does it when I didn't tell it to. I might want this when doing development, port tunneling, VPN stuff, etc. In most cases, it won't matter, but when it does, it will be a pain in the ass.

[–] Synthead@lemmy.ml 9 points 1 year ago (5 children)

I disagree. While in practice, this is often the same website, it is a different protocol and a different port. It just happens to use the same DNS address. You're explicitly giving your browser a FQDN, and it is ignoring it and doing something else.

I hope this feature can be disabled. Google has been ignoring the W3C and has shipped proprietary, insecure features in their chromium engine for a while now, so it wouldn't surprise me if they made it permanent 🤷

[–] Synthead@lemmy.ml 10 points 1 year ago

If I need more space or more speed. Otherwise, it's a waste.

[–] Synthead@lemmy.ml 1 points 1 year ago (1 children)
 

I am looking to ditch some PoE Ubiquiti hardware in favor of a DIY approach with 802.11ax cards. What card would you recommend for long-range 802.11ax? Are there gotchas when hosting with hostapd with some cards, like binary blob drivers, incomplete support, etc. that I should know about? Is there any reason I should avoid doing this? I will likely add omnidirectional antennas to this setup; what would you recommend there?

For what it's worth, Ubiquiti stuff is expensive, and lately, they have embedded ads into their Unifi controller software that you host yourself. I really don't like this move. I like the hands-off "appliance" approach to the APs, but they are still finicky, and I would feel a lot more at ease editing a configuration file than hosting a hefty piece of software that only runs on an obsolete version of Java.

 

One of my joysticks started to do this muted "click" when moving it up and down. It's really subtle, like you can very gently touch the end of the range by tapping the joystick shaft on the Deck's chassis, then you can push it a little more and it'll do a little "bump."

I took the back of my Deck off, unplugged the joystick, removed the three screws, and pulled it out. Then, I pulled the cap off and saw that the cap is just a friction fit on the shaft, and the cap is simply loose and wobbling.

To fix it, I cut a 1 cm x 1 cm square of plastic from a ziplock bag and put it on top of the shaft. Then, I squeezed it with my fingers to kinda form it to the shaft so it'd stay put. Finally, I pressed the cap back on.

That's it! The little piece of ziplock bag helps the cap grip the shaft and stay put. You can attach it back to the chassis with the three screws and reconnect the ribbon cable to test it with the back off just in case anything is wrong, then put the case back on when you're confident.

Also, the ribbon cable comes with a couple pinched folds, and is taped to a daughterboard PCB. It's easy to damage. Here's a part that's a near-exact replacement that works great, in case you break yours:

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/molex/0150200097/2817187

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