Thanks for breaking it down for me! I think I'll stick with the B650 motherboard for now.
elDalvini
joined 1 year ago
Right, I guess I assumed CPU naming makes sense, so surely the lower number CPU must be worse in every way, right?😜
Looks like going with the 7700X is a no-brainer for me then.
As for your upgrade recommendations: Can you explain the benefits of a higher-end mainboard? I would think the mainboard shouldn't make a huge difference, as long as it's from a reputable manufacturer and compatible with all the other parts.
Thanks for your help!
Right, I might just see what cooler I can get second-hand. Thanks for your input!
From a cursory read of the datasheet, using the "dead time control" pin seems to be the way to go. Basically, this pin is used to set the voltage, while the error amplifier inputs (that's the closest function to "over current protection" this chip has) are used to adjust the output according to the load. For your application, you probably don't need to use them at all.
My instinct would be to disable the error amplifiers by connecting pins 1,2,15 and 16 to GND. You can then connect the wiper pin of the potentiometer to the deadtime control input, with the other pins of the potentiometer connected to GND and 3.3 V.
I haven't worked with this chip before, so take this with a grain of salt. You should probably use a simulation tool to check the circuit before you start destroying chips.
Do you expect every meme to be meticulously handcrafted? It's a stupid joke, not a work of art.
Close, but the word ends in -le, not -ie. The -le suffix is used as a diminutive form in some German dialects.
If that freehub is constructed like the ones I've taken apart before, you're out of luck. Like you suspected, the teeth lock the rotation of the freehub to the hub, unless the screw in the back is taken out first.
You can try hammering in a (slightly larger) torx key or using an easy-out (probably won't work if it's very tight).
As a last resort, you could try to drill out the screw (only so far that the freehub comes off, you don't want to drill into the hub). Then you should hopefully be left with enough left of screw to grab with a pipe wrench.
My router is called Jupiter, everything connected to it is named after a moon. Callisto, Ganymede, Thelxinoe, Kallichore are what I'm currently using.
IIRC, this is actually done at some point in the books.
That's why I don't let every device decide individually. I know my router (FritzBox) prioritizes the pi-hole (it's even called "preferred" and "alternative" DNS-Server in the UI)
I have my pi-hole setup as the upstream DNS in my router, with cloudflare as a secondary DNS. That way, all my devices always use the router for DNS (since that's what is advertised in my DHCP) and the router then uses pi-hole if it's available, or cloudflare if it isn't. But the individual device doesn't get to choose between different servers.
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You can use a boost converter to boost the 5V of an USB port to the 19V your notebook needs.
Assuming 5A output from a powerbank (which is probably about the max you will get without USB PD), you could theoretically get 0.55A at 19V. With the unavoidable inefficiencies, you will get less.
So, maybe enough to very slowly charge your notebook while it's off. But when it's turned on, the battery charge will still drop.