Electric Vehicles

Hi,

I recently became interested in electric vehicles and I have a question regarding vehicle-to-grid charging. As far as I found out, you need a car with a DC connector to be able to take the charge from the car and direct the electricity into the grid. Is there a way to use cars with an AC connector to power my home?Some sort of tool,perhaps?

https://forms.gle/1PJmEpFoqWw9NpgR6

Hey there! If you are owner of an electric car, please take this quick survey. It only contains of 6 six questions, and it won't take you more than 3 minutes. If you answer the questions from the survey, it will help us to develop our school project, for which we will be very grateful to you. Thank you in advance!

Hi

Just to double check with FPL evolution home program :

Under this program, is it only the EV charger who is under the off/on peak hours ?

Or the off/on peak hours apply to ALL the house under this program ?

What I found it: Total consumption: 3.6 l/100 km CO2 emissions: 81g/km Euro standard: euro 6d temp Energy efficiency: F

Has anyone been able to buy one?

I'm in the NJ/NYC area... I can't find a dealership or store.

Ty <3 tk

EDIT: The push for Tesla and specific EV favorites is SO STRONG in the USA that I can't even buy a "BYD" logo T-shirt on Amazon!!!

I’m assuming this could be why Tesla’s are so cheap compared with similar electric cars.

Let’s take the model y LR and the Kia Ev9 Earth.

The model y LR has a range of 533km with a 75kwh battery

The ev9 earth has a range of 512km with a 99.8kwh battery.

That’s 14.8kwh more than the Tesla and 21km LESS range than the Tesla.

Is Tesla’s cars just more efficient? And by that much??

There’s no way Tesla can be that much more efficient with it’s motor, aerodynamics and electronics. (What am I missing?)

Other brands should be able to do somewhat the same. An electric motor isn’t a complex machine and aerodynamics can be easily improved upon. Same for electronics.

When towing with an EV (especially something large like an RV) it is well understood that the #1 greatest drain on available range is wind resistance. Driving more slowly helps to mitigate this. This is of course true even when not towing, but the effect is much more pronounced when you have a giant sail of a trailer behind you.

Then there is the energy lost due to gravity when climbing hills. You can of course get a fair amount of that back on the backside of the hill through regen, but regen is not 100% efficient.

It requires a certain amount of energy just to counteract gravity when your vehicle is on a hill. Imagine that you are on a hill and hold the car still just by feathering the accelerator. You're getting zero mi/kWh. You'll drain the entire battery after some time (probably a few hours) without moving an inch. That energy doesn't just disappear once you start moving. It's there the whole time you're on a hill, a parasitic load on your battery that grows linearly with the amount of time you spend on the hill.

So based on that, there is clearly some advantage to completing the ascent of a hill faster, so as to spend less time on the hill (and thus spend less of that parasitic drain). However, this has to be balanced by the wind resistance. It doesn't make sense to go 70mph towing an RV up a grade, as the additional losses due to wind resistance would likely exceed the gains from spending less time on the hill. Conversely, driving 20mph up the hill would also not make sense, as the parasitic drain from gravity would almost certainly exceed the gains from less wind resistance.

There's two curves here and they surely intersect at some optimal speed to climb a hill. So given your vehicle's frontal area, Cd, angle of the grade, length of the grade, and probably a few other parameters, it must be possible to determine the optimal speed to ascend a hill. It's surely also possible to factor in the descent, assuming something like an 70% efficient return of energy on the backside through regen.

Does anybody know if anybody has worked out such a formula? Maybe the wizards at ABRP?

Hi friends,

Does anyone know how to deal with the service light in this car? It's a leasing from work and they forgot to give me the driver's car manual.

I have just serviced ot, so I only need to get rid of the bright red light.

Hybrids are the most reliable cars and PHEVs the least reliable in CR’s most recent survey.

If you're an EV owner what has your experience been? Does it match up with what Consumer Reports found in their article?

So the car is currently an automatic and rear-wheel drive. Finding a rwd set-up(which is what I would like…), seems to be limited to people using then Tesla rwd. Same goes for most battery builds if you want the cells to last for a bit range wise.

I picked up an old brushed motor from an old Chevrolet G20 van conversion. This was rwd using a transfer case and keeping the motor mounted straight to the rear axle and using the transfer case to eliminate the need for a driveline. I kept the transfer case and never did sort out replacement brushes, so I gave it back.

I think my best bet would be to use a reduction drive on the tail end of a motor, rebuild the old rear-end, use a driveshaft, and just have direct drive.

Car is around 3,700lbs, but I think the existing motor and transmission are around 800lbs give or take… I would like to get around a 150 miles of range. What would be some good motor/battery options?

So I'm very new to having an electric vehicle. Found an electrify america station near my workplace. Have used it SEVERAL times. Plug in. Put my card in. Card processed. Charges my car. Finish my session & unplug. Paid and all set.

HOWEVER, was looking at my bank app today and see that I haven't been charged any money...at all. Not even ONCE for all the times I've charged my car. Which is easily over $100 now since I also do Uber. Anyone else have this happen? Are they going to suddenly whammy me at some point with all the money?

TLDR; Using physical card, not app or wallet app to pay electrify america charging. They haven't charged my bank even once. Anyone else?