PC Modding

Full specs: Dell Precision M4700
CPU: Intel i7 3940QM @ 2.70 GHz
GPU: Intel Graphics 4000 + Nvidia Quadro M2000M
RAM: 24gb(2x8gb) (2x4gb) DDR3
Storage: 256GB Cruical SSD CT250MX500SSD
OS: Windows 11 Pro.
-USING A EXTERNAL COOLING FAN FOR GPU HIGH LOAD TEMPS.

The HDD was upgraded to a 256gb SSD.

The Ram was Upgraded to 24gb.

For MXM type A 3.0, i had my sights set on two cards to replace my amd firepro 4000 1GB GPU..... That was the M2200 (~90$), and M2000M ($40). Both are 4GB GPU cards, there is minimal difference in preformance, but double the price. I went with the M2000M for the M4700.

Since i did not want to remove the laptop from its casing for the cooling under high loads, I am using an external air conditioning fan, that is mounted about an inch below the laptop on the laptop stand.

I used Artic-MX6 thermal paste for this M2000M.

It keeps my GPU @ 35°c idle with fan on, 50°c idle with no fan on.

Games were getting the temp to 92°-93°C at Max load before i used my external fan.

After the fan, i have been seen consistant temps of 75°-85° during full load. (Pubg, Hogwarts Legacy, Baulders Gate 3) Not any temp recorded over 85 yet.

Pictures of my machine

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/12OvjzektVfkD8yaMTQQp27ZBittTmm25

Thanks for checking out my low budget gaming Laptop

If you are interested in the exact file for the M2000M driver, i will have a download link below for your M4700. I had the biggest trouble with Nvidia Auto installer, as well as manually retrying driver after driver after driver. I believe it could be because i'm on Win 11, im unsure. Here is the driver from my computer exported working on Win 11 after countless attempts to get it to work on mine.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/12dNqArQRy1lA4JQwPXdF39wvkdLtO-mR/view?usp=drivesdk

Does anyone make this adapter or would i need to make my own? I want to use my old dell vista case, but build a modern PC inside. I am a newbie so i am trying to learn the best approach. Any help would be appreciated.

Is it possible to wire a power button like this to the arcade box console If so can some one tell me the process

Had this screen laying around for years. It's finaly useful <3

I have a spare mini pc lying around after using it for about a year with an eGPU before now replacing it with a gaming pc I built. Like the title says, I want to remove the internals of my beelink Ser6 Pro and install them into a small form factor pc case like the Fractal Ridge. There are two big questions I have with this idea aside from just “Is this reasonably possible?”.

1: I have the Ser6 pro with a Ryzen 7 6800h CPU. Are there consumer cooling solutions that might work for this cpu? Any simple mods I can make to adapt something like an AIO work for this CPU?

2: I would plan to use an M.2 Key to PCIE in order to incorporate a GPU. Is there any reason I couldn’t also use a gpu riser with an m.2 Key like this?

If anyone has any reference material I could check out of a build similar to this it would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance

Trying to get happy with my minimal visible cable build and I'm down to the last 3 visible cables.

24 Pin ATX, USB 3.2 Gen 1 (20 pin), and USB 3.2 Gen2x2 (Type E). The 24 pin power and the 20 pin USB are easy, there's tons of good looking 90 degree adapters that will look like a natural part of my case. The type E port though is proving more challenging. Moddiy has one, but it's just a bare PCB with no shroud, so not able to be smoothly hidden. another option could be like the ASRock extension cable from their Taichi X570 boards, but the less cable to hide the better.

Anybody find any good options for this?

Hi! So, the power button on my case isn't working properly, and I wanted to try to replace it. I accidentally bought some capacitative switches instead of buttons, and I'm wondering if I can do anything with them to make them work.

Thank you!

Hi all, I have an old Silverstone Temjin Series TJ-11 and I have always wanted to mount a closed loop to the rear of the case. The issue is that back panel is empty and doesn't have fans mounts. Does anyone know of a service (website) that does custom mods on old preowned chassis'?

https://thegadgetdiary.com/best-cyber-monday-laptop-deals/

I honestly thought it was an interesting word. For some reason, u/A_Fat_Foxie_Too responded "I thought I blocked you already".

I don't troll people, and generally try to be helpful in the PC subreddits. Would be nice to know how I'd offended them, I'd rather talk it out.

Finished this baby 6 days ago and thought i should give an update along with my other questions. Special thanks to u/original_user for pointing out my mistake (which i thought i didn't make) and u/AL-H for further answering my question

https://youtu.be/P2HIoPjLU_c?si=9jbb-yu0dYpCbvWX

second version of the panel

The build is still a WIP cause i'm using a very unconventional led strip to temporarily lit up the case. I'm ordering the correct type of led strips so they should arrive in a few days. Screen is still powered by the lcd psu as i don't have a multimeter and a soldering iron yet (they are on the way home too).

On to the questions, i'm trying to power the screen via my PC psu. Which cables should i cut and keep? I don't have a multimeter yet but luckily the cables are color-coded. However, i can't seem to figure out what every wire does. Can someone help me?

psu cables (color-coded)

So, i'm assuming i just have to solder/connect 2 black wires (GRD) and 2 red wires (5v) to my psu molex connector (will probably need an adapter cable?) and it should boot right up?

Appreciate any help!

I have a lot of bad experiences with glass side panels. I desperately needed to upgrade my PC case and Microcenter had a beautiful Corsair ICUE 4000X on clearance for $50.

The catch: No screws (which I didn't care about), and a glass side panel.

For perspective, I have a 5950x and a 3080ti. I've been using a cheap $30 case ever since I had to retire my NZXT Phantom 530 and my PC has been overheating ever since. I CAAAN spent like $200 on a beautiful new case that doesn't have a glass side panel but that wouldn't be very financially responsible for me.

So I'm stuck with this. I want to modify the side panel to make sure that when it does inevitably shatter, it won't create a huge mess and result in me stepping on glass. I'm wondering if anybody has tried applying anti-shatter films to their side panels and how successful its been.

https://thegadgetdiary.com/best-black-friday-gaming-pc-deals-amazon/

The Zotac RTX 4060 fan is pretty loud, but is the perfect card for my K39 SFF PC. Has anyone tried replacing the single fan Zotac Rtx 4060 GPU with a quieter fan?

​

https://preview.redd.it/4ym4zgmp472c1.jpg?width=679&amp;format=pjpg&amp;auto=webp&amp;s=19422f9fdaa8061a2559b9663682c3da53310b8e

Does anyone have a gigabyte B150m-d3h? I'm trying to boot a LEGACY USB stick.

I tried setting Storage Controller to "LEGACY" and "CSM Enabled"

However in the boot menu, it lists "UEFI: ...." for the USB stick.

I was able to boot the stick on another computer, not sure how to do it on this MB.

I recently got my hands on an RX5600XT, and I'm thinking of using it as a base for swapping fans and reshrouding, kind of like a normal deshroud just without a ziptie and hopefully a bit better looking? Maybe.

So I took the card apart and the heatsink fins are 88mm wide and 235mm long. I'm a bit torn between using 92mm fans or 80mm fans. Would it be better to use a 92*276 with a lot of the airflow "leaking", or a 80*240 that doesn't fully cover the width of the heatsink?

I recall an old r/sffpc post about how most of the pressure and airflow is generated at the fan blade tips, but have never tested this myself. Also Arctic only makes P8s but not P9s, which means I would have to find an alternative 92mm fan.

Also, is it better to have the fans pressed flush against the heatsink, or have a bit of clearance (like 5 to 10mm)

I recently upgraded my system and I am giving my old one to my wife. The issue is, here complete setup is pink with a light purple mousepad. Her current pc case is pink, but lacks sufficient cooling and isn't easy to fit my old system in. The new pc she is receiving is much more recent and powerful than hers. Has anyone painted an S340 case before? We have the white/purple S340. Purple can stay the same. Also, all of her peripherals are the razer quartz pink, so color recommendations for paint close to that will be appreciated. Tips, tricks, or general information on how to approach this will also be appreciated.

I've Asus G74SX 17.3 in screen and I would like to use it as HDMI Input for my PS5 without

destroying the entire laptop and somehow mount the LCD controller board on the outer cover.

Is this possible for dual input way one from Laptop and one from PS5?

Hello,

normally I would just try doing it, but since the gpu was expensive and I can't afford another one if i break it, I want to make sure to ask first.

I have Sapphire RTX 3060 Ti, blower model. But I am tired of how loud it is, every time I do some 3D stuff, or play a game I have to listen to the jet engine next to my head, so my plan is to remove the shroud with the fan and then ziptie two 120mm noctua fans I have to the heatsink block on the card.

The issue is that in most videos and photos I found, when they unscrew the shroud, it always comes off along with the heatsink, which I don't want, since I don't want to screw around with damaging the heatpads and having to reapply cooling paste etc.

So I was wondering if i remove all the screws except the 4 ones holding the heat sink at the bottom, will it be possible to just remove the shroud with the fan, without removing the heatsink?

https://preview.redd.it/ehi3h0nqvu1c1.png?width=1549&amp;format=png&amp;auto=webp&amp;s=b914f48b1a1fc776758d3e04005605a9e5f8e9d8

Hello,

normally I would just try doing it, but since the gpu was expensive and I can't afford another one if i break it, I want to make sure to ask first.

I have Sapphire RTX 3060 Ti, blower model. But I am tired of how loud it is, every time I do some 3D stuff, or play a game I have to listen to the jet engine next to my head, so my plan is to remove the shroud with the fan and then ziptie two 120mm noctua fans I have to the heatsink block on the card.

The issue is that in most videos and photos I found, when they unscrew the shroud, it always comes off along with the heatsink, which I don't want, since I don't want to screw around with damaging the heatpads and having to reapply cooling paste etc.

So I was wondering if i remove all the screws except the 4 ones holding the heat sink at the bottom, will it be possible to just remove the shroud with the fan, without removing the heatsink?

https://preview.redd.it/ehi3h0nqvu1c1.png?width=1549&amp;format=png&amp;auto=webp&amp;s=b914f48b1a1fc776758d3e04005605a9e5f8e9d8

I have 10 CM sickleflow aRGB fans and I would like to control each fan colors and each fan individual leds. What would be my options? I chose the fans because of the low price and the fact that I wouldn't be locked into Corsair's iCue ecosystem or something like that. I'm not afraid if I have to build a controller from arduino if that's possible.

My gpu sits on the shelf technically upside down with the pcie slot facing upward all because I want the “RTX 4070” to be displayed up and down. I have a normal riser cable that goes straight but wanted to get a 90 degree riser to help clean up the aesthetic but all the 90 degree bends I find on Amazon and around seem to be for your typical vertical orientation where the slot is on the bottom. In my situation that would make the bend point out towards the front and not to the back. Is there anywhere that sells something niche or specific like that?

Hey all! I've got an old ASUS ROG GL503GE laptop with broken keyboard and LCD but the PCB is fine, but the replacements for these are not cheap. So instead, I plan to turn this into desktop by transplanting this to a working-in-progress 3D-printed case.

I started by removing the board completely and immediately looked for a way to boot without the chassis by connecting it to the external power supply through the DC adapter and jumping the power LED connector but to no avail.

Power LED Connector

Then, I tried reconnecting this LED connector to the LED board that is factory-embedded to the chassis along with the keyboard and pressing the power button. This still doesn't let me boot because turns out the power button is part of the keyboard and thus needs to be connected first.

LED Board

I was finally able to make it boot only by reconnecting the seemingly keyboard connector back to the board, which didn't surprise me because I had confirmed it could boot before I took it apart.

Keyboard Connector

Maybe it is just me who did not jump this correctly in the first place, but is my assumption that the power LED connector is the only one needed in theory to boot the system valid?

Suppose that my assumption is valid. Now, I still need to figure out a way to make this boot with an external power button connecting to the board via the ribbon cable shown above. I expected this would be similar to desktop front panel connector but I have been looking for this for a while and I couldn't find any product or even the right search key to look for this. So, does anyone know the name of this connector? Assuming this is not ASUS OEM, if someone can point me to a specific product available on Amazon or Ebay, that will be super helpful.

Thanks a lot!