161
Fuckit, less than $20 parts, and very little labor. Works perfectly 👍
this post was submitted on 30 Jul 2026
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This literally cannot touch any ground points. It's impossible. I made damn sure of that.
And even if it somehow does fail someday, what's the worst that's gonna happen?
Back to the original problem, blinkers don't flash, just stuck on.
This fix works fine though.
I thought I was pretty clear on that: a dead short heats the wiring until the wires melt, the molten metal catches some plastic part on fire, the whole car burns down. For total worst case scenario, let's say this happens on the highway during the middle of a family road trip, several states away from home.
You know what could make really sure of that? A $1 roll of electrical tape.
Yes, I'm well aware of how electricity works, and I'm aware of the potential dangers.
Look at the fuse block we inherited, almost every single fuse was bumped up to a 30 amp. The flasher circuit only calls for a 15 amp fuse, so if anything, I trust my rigup more than the overrated 30 amp fuse that was in there. At least the function of a flasher module is to break the circuit.
Also, to flash or not to flash...
Police and ICE agents have tasers that deliver like 30KV or so, so you know what, I'll take my success with this ~12 volt rigup.
If I ever do find the OG flasher module, well I'll just replace that and drop in a proper 15 amp fuse where my rigup is currently installed.
Okay, that's also highly concerning, but it doesn't make what you've done any better.
You really don't seem to be understanding the issue that one of these bare, unprotected contacts is connected directly to the battery without going through the flasher. If grounded metal touches that contact, you have a dead short, and there's nothing the flasher module can do about it. Power doesn't have to flow through the flasher at all to complete that circuit.
Yeah ... I'm starting to doubt your earlier 'aware of how electricity works' comment. The voltage isn't an issue here. The problem in a dead short circuit is uncontrolled amperage. A short circuit with no load would pull the full available amperage of your battery (several hundred amps) through a blinker circuit with thin wires rated for a maximum of 15 amps. Wires will melt if this thing shorts ... and whether those melted wires start a fire or not is mostly just down to luck.
Well, if that's what it takes for you to fix this fire hazard, I hope you find it.
Until then, please just add some electrical tape (and maybe an inline fuse) like everybody in this entire thread is telling you to do. If you're going to DIY electrical stuff, please use a bit of proper safety. Insulation and fuse protection is very basic stuff. It's not expensive or difficult, either -- I don't know why you're so against doing it.
There is literally absolutely no metal anywhere even remotely near the contacts. Up, down, left, right, front and back, everything around is plastic, which is an insulator.
You'd deliberately have to try to short it out with a 2 foot long screwdriver plus activate the flasher arm at the same time for anything bad to happen.
And by the way, I never use electrical tape, I use heatshrink/thermalfit tubing. Would it please you if I put some heatshrink over the yellow connectors?
Honestly though, I ain't the least bit worried about it, it works fine and has nothing anywhere nearby to short out with. Plus, with the fuse panel cover put back on, it can't even move, so that's not a worry either.
Yeah, that would also be acceptable.
Guess what? I found the OG module from GMC. It's located right under the radio, just to the left of the not one but three 12 volt sockets, right next to the ashtray. The fella that asked Google Gemini actually found me the answer, while people were giving him/her shit.
My fix is still safer than the OG GMC flasher module installed within less than two inches of three 12 volt sockets.
At least my bodge fix is a circuit breaker, not a circuit maker, and is installed more than a foot away from any ground or hot points.