It's generic for thicker resins. A higher lift and a short pause is normal so that resin can flow back under the print where it just separated.
Just tune it down for your particular resins.
this post was submitted on 17 Oct 2024
12 points (100.0% liked)
3DPrinting
15591 readers
85 users here now
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: !functionalprint@kbin.social or !functionalprint@fedia.io
There are CAD communities available at: !cad@lemmy.world or !freecad@lemmy.ml
Rules
-
No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
-
Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
-
No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
-
No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
-
Do not create links to reddit
-
If you see an issue please flag it
-
No guns
-
No injury gore posts
If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is 
Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible
founded 1 year ago
MODERATORS
It's odd then that this seems to be the case for all the resins I've tried (granted, they're all from anycubic, just different types).
You'd think that the companies advertising "8k resin" would try to shill their product as "low lift, faster prints" or something.
I have a pair of Mono 6ks's and yeah. Their settings are even across most of the resins in their slicer. I use the same settings between ABS, nylons and clear resins but just for functional prints. (Precision only matters in key spots for me.)
I will say this though: Their base settings work for me, which is super different than what I was used to with FDM.
Lift speed is determined more by the plastic sheet type, and "8k resin" may or may not be a little thinner and that is generally the only difference, if at all. (+8k resin is almost always marketing wank.) nFEP is the most common way to go for the detail/speed tradeoff.
(The Blu nylons are thick as hell though, so the lift speed/dwell can actually matter.)
Mono 6k's
Yup, that's my exact printer. Haha.
+8k resin is almost always marketing wank.
Yeah, that's why I figured a company that is willing to make up mostly BS to sell their stuff would jump at the opportunity to advertise an actual perk (lower lift height).
Yes, having a system where the manufacturer recommended settings actually work and work well is wild coming from FDM printing. With filament they're like "uh print somewhere around this temp I guess 👍🏽" what retraction settings? How fast can I print? Flow %? Granted this all varies dramatically from printer to printer so I know why they don't try to give a profile, but it's so nice that resin printing you've got a perfectly working baseline that you only really need to fine tune if you want.
Those are good printers. I put about 6 different resin types through them, and did get my optimal settings for fine detail because I was curious. It's just pointless for what I do, s'all.
But yes, depending on what your goals are for printing, there is a fuck ton of room for speed improvements.