Tudor Pelagos 42mm blue
Watches
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Christopher Ward Bel Canto would certainty be high on my list, first thing that came to mind when I read the thread title.
If looking at the grey market, a reverso would be my pick of the bunch.
Some great suggestions here, but have a look at the Breitling Superocean Heritage II.
Accutron, really my Grail for under about 10k
Citizen Chronomaster 100%
Carrier tank
Older Omega Seamaster or Tudor but not quite vintage
I like just about everything Weiss Watch Co puts out. New between $2k-$4k
Shunbun 443
I'd try for a gently used Breitling Montbrillant.... I just think those are the best looking pieces.
Zodiac ZO3604 Sea-Chron in black is my next watch.
I really want that CW Moon Watch.
Used Rolex Explorer.
For me at the moment the BB54, I love the size and look. One of my favorites and hope to have one someday!
I like a lot of the Grand Seiko Elegance collection pieces and they are around 5k
Oris Big Crown Pointer Date, specifically the Roberto Clemente edition
I'm increasingly drawn to Tudor and (to a lesser extent) Longines. I'm also drawn to Serica; their newest GMT release is a cracker.
I identify with Tudor over Rolex as a brand - Rolex makes me roll my eyes a little; it's too ... easy, too obvious. Plus, Explorer and Explorer II excluded, I don't really like modern Rolex that much aesthetically. They're too ... overstated for my taste. All that shiny ceramic and sapphire and white gold on the dial.
The more toolish aspect of Tudor (and some of the Longines Heritage re-issues) are more to my taste. Tudors build quality is very good, perhaps 80% of the quality Rolex offer (at least) for a bit over 50% of the cost. Longines less so. The Spirit Range is well made, the Heritage re-issues less so and the difference in build quality to Tudor is immediately evident, making Longines worth the money when bought below retail and Tudor a relative bargain.
But that's all subjective, even theoretical. So if I was starting from scratch today and had up to $15K to spend what would I buy?
• Tudor Ranger
• Longines Avigation Big-Eye
• Serica 8315 GMT
• Certina DS PH200-m (Beater)
• Tudor Date-Day Jumbo (vintage)
• Longines Heritage Sector
Preowned speedy Any tudor
Used Explorer 1
Vintage Rolex. In another few months, maybe even a GMT.
Bell & Ross x Alain Silberstein
Longines Master 190th
Something like this IWC. If Sinn or Longines decided to copy this design and use an upgraded version of the 7750 and release it in non-limited fashion, I'd start saving money today.
You can find plenty of good Rolex Explorer 14270 models for just a tad over your $5k budget. This is the ultimate go anywhere/do anything watch and hands down my choice for ~$5k.
Weiss is my patriot vote
Christopher ward Twelve Titanium Purple
Get a Pelagos 42 and beat the piss out of it.
It's a tool watch that's worthy of admiration and just looks GOOD.
Kleynod AN-225 "Mriya". Having a hard time choosing between the 1988 and 2001 series. So both I guess?
Christopher Ward Bel Canto, Citizen LE Chronomaster, Oris PPX, or a Pegalos
50s bubble back. 90-2010 reverso. Or GS snowflake.
Christopher Ward Twelve and id get 2 of them
Seiko 5 JoJo's Bizarre Adventure collection, specifically Diavolo, Giorno, and Bucciarati.
Gonna have to be the OG Tudor black bay heritage for me, specifically the 79220R. Tons of character with the rose & smiley dial, thinner than the in-house version and cheaper to service.
I’m a sucker for German-made watches, and would have to recommend a Nomos
Answering in the spirit of the question by going retail, and ignoring the secondary, unlike some people here who are somehow like “I’d get a Submariner, an Explorer and a Grand Seiko and then invest the remaining $1800.” I’m going to go with the Tudor Pelagos LHD.