this post was submitted on 11 Dec 2025
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I bought an Ender 3 V3 (corexz) recently, and have been having bed adhesion issues. Please help me interpret this bed adhesion test result (programming.dev)
submitted 4 hours ago* (last edited 3 hours ago) by nieceandtows@programming.dev to c/3dprinting@lemmy.world
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This is the model I used: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4572809

I printed these by using the official orca profile from Creality for Orca Slicer: https://wiki.creality.com/en/ender-series/ender-3-v3/quick-start-guide/how-to-use-orca-slicer-with-ender-3-v3

  1. Why are the squares looking so wonky? Which setting is responsible for this?
  2. I see some spots where the prints moved to other places, but I run bed leveling every time. Is it bed warp, or some other profile setting I need to tweak? I wiped the bed with 70% isopropyl alcohol before I printed this, btw

EDIT:

Looks like the issue was with the wobbly table. I placed it on the floor, reran the self tests, and it's now printing a lot better!

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[–] dual_sport_dork@lemmy.world 1 points 39 minutes ago

Wiping the bed with alcohol doesn't really remove any contamination from its surface, it more or less just moves it around. Wash it thoroughly with dish soap and running water as others have suggested and give it a real good rinse afterwards. The goal is to get oils and other contaminants off of the surface and to wash them down the drain, whence they will trouble you no more.

[–] DigDoug@lemmy.world 3 points 2 hours ago* (last edited 2 hours ago) (1 children)

It looks like you've fixed, it, but I'll share my 2c anyway:

Iso takes much longer to evaporate fully than it looks. Even though it's volatile, the texture of the build plate gives a lot of extra surface area for it to cling to. Because of this, I found that waiting overnight after cleaning with iso was a good idea. At least for me, this completely fixed my adhesion problems.

[–] Blue_Morpho@lemmy.world 4 points 1 hour ago (1 children)

Iso takes much longer to evaporate fully than it looks

If you let iso evaporate it isn't doing anything. The purpose of iso or dish soap is to dissolve oils. If you let the iso evaporate the oils will be left behind and settle back on the build plate.

I use two paper towels. One to wipe with iso, and the other to wipe the iso away.

If you want a fast dry (iso is 10% water) set the bed temp to 100C for a few seconds.

[–] DigDoug@lemmy.world 2 points 1 hour ago

Of course, but it doesn't all wipe away. The remaining part is what you need to make sure evaporates.

[–] slock@lemmy.world 2 points 2 hours ago

Clean the printing surface with dish soap and tepid water, and adjust your z offset. It appears to be too low from what I can see, but it's hard to tell from a few pictures. It's not supposed to be 0, and will depend on your specific printer, extruder, ... You should aim to have fully filled squares, with no apparent "scars" on the surface left by the hotend moves. A nice rule of thumb is to be able to barely move a sheet of paper between your plate and the hotend freely without feeling friction (make sure to clean the tip of the hotend before). If after these steps it still produces these results, maybe there is an issue with you bed planarity, but most likely your pla has gone bad (I've even seen sealed bags go bad over a few years), try with a freshly dried filament, or a new roll from a reputable source

[–] duckythescientist@sh.itjust.works 3 points 3 hours ago (1 children)

I see you cleaned the bed with IPA. I'd also recommend dish soap and water. I was struggling with adhesion on a new bed from Prusa, and soap fully fixed my issue.

[–] vladmech@lemmy.world 3 points 3 hours ago

Huge +1 for dish soap. I was having issues with small lettering about the same size as your test sticking. Washed my plate with Dawn and it was a night and day difference.

[–] directive0@lemmy.world 6 points 4 hours ago (1 children)

Not an expert but you may want to look at your z-offset? Maybe you're a little high off the bed?

[–] nieceandtows@programming.dev 2 points 4 hours ago (1 children)

Printable Area Z Offset = 0mm and Extruder Offset is 0x0mm

[–] dual_sport_dork@lemmy.world 1 points 36 minutes ago

The goal of your offset is not to be zero. Actually, in a perfectly ideal world that would be impossible because it would result in your nozzle touching and dragging along the surface on the first layer. Your Z actual final Z offset figure will be arbitrary based on the vagarities of your particular machine including the total overall length of the nozzle and thickness of the build plate, etc.

The actual goal is to achieve an accurate first layer which results in a thickness of 0.2mm or whatever your first layer's height is, with minimal inaccuracy. You have to set the offset of the nozzle from the plate via Z axis adjustment such that there is a (literally) paper-thin gap between the tip of the nozzle and the plate. That doesn't mean just setting it to zero. If setting it to zero actually worked, there would not actually be any reason to calibrate it...

[–] How_do_I_computah@lemmy.world 4 points 3 hours ago (1 children)

It looks like you're either way too close to the bed or your nozzle needs to be replaced. Looks like massive over extrusion. Fat fat print lines. Your model has no printing in the diagonal yet your print has it in almost every square. Maybe you're failing to retraction.

[–] nieceandtows@programming.dev 2 points 3 hours ago (1 children)

I think the issue is at least partly due to a wobbly table. I just took off the printer and placed it on the floor, redid the self test, and it's printing a lot better than before.

[–] How_do_I_computah@lemmy.world 1 points 3 hours ago

Ha. I was looking at the wrong picture in the linked thingiverse file. It does fill them in. That does look better.

[–] lefixxx@lemmy.world 1 points 2 hours ago

Bed mesh looks ok z offset might be too high I have had bed adhesion problems i couldn't solve that just went away when i swapped filaments. Wet fila ment can hide really well as bed adhesion problems

[–] ChonkyOwlbear@lemmy.world 2 points 3 hours ago

Honestly, I gave up on dealing with bed adhesion issues on fine parts and just use a glue stick on the bed.

[–] nieceandtows@programming.dev 3 points 4 hours ago (3 children)

Also, what does this mean?

[–] cosmicrookie@lemmy.world 5 points 4 hours ago (1 children)

Have you done any bed leveling?

[–] nieceandtows@programming.dev 3 points 4 hours ago (2 children)

I ran the built in leveling and input shaping self test last night, and often run calibration before print

[–] CmdrShepard49@sh.itjust.works 1 points 2 hours ago

Crank down on that back left corner a little more and rerun this test to see if you can get it under a 0.2mm range for the height difference. Since you've moved the printer off the table and on to the floor it may have altered things so you'll want to redo it anyway (and any other time you physically move the printer).

[–] cosmicrookie@lemmy.world 2 points 3 hours ago* (last edited 3 hours ago)

Ok. I am not familiar with self leveling so wouldn't know if it's enough. But maybe the bed just needs a good cleaning with alcohol?

[–] How_do_I_computah@lemmy.world 3 points 3 hours ago (1 children)

It means it has measured your bed and the left side of your bed is higher than the right. Don't get twisted about the graphic as it can exaggerate the shape. Look at the numbers. I don't know off the top of my head if those are excessive

[–] CmdrShepard49@sh.itjust.works 2 points 2 hours ago

I think its a bit excessive. That shows there's almost a two and a half layer (at a standard 0.2mm layer) difference between the high and low spots. On my old printer with klipper installed, I would shoot for less than 0.2mm.

[–] MyTurtleSwimsUpsideDown@fedia.io 1 points 2 hours ago

That’s a removable print plate? Check if there’s anything stuck under between the plate and the heater on the high side/corner

[–] Ulrich@feddit.org 1 points 3 hours ago
  1. Are you using the filament that came with it? Because it's horrendous.
  2. Look up the "Creality hotend fix"
  3. Throw some Elmer's Stick glue or similar on that bed before firing it up.
[–] Jaeger86@lemmy.world 1 points 3 hours ago* (last edited 3 hours ago)

What's the bed temp at? I usually have to run mine around 62C for PLA and turn the cooling fan to 20% or off.