IMALlama

joined 2 years ago
[โ€“] IMALlama@lemmy.world 1 points 1 week ago

For ACM - like aluminium honeycomb?

ACM is more of a sandwich. Aluminum, plastic, aluminum.

I have a boring old klicky. It works very for me ๐Ÿคท

[โ€“] IMALlama@lemmy.world 40 points 2 weeks ago

Great read, with some amusing asides.

Shots fired!

[โ€“] IMALlama@lemmy.world 1 points 2 weeks ago

We probably have the same model - the one with the big oval stand. Every once in a while I wish it was OLED and/or higher resolution, but it's not worth the expensive or all the modern "features" such as these.

[โ€“] IMALlama@lemmy.world 1 points 3 weeks ago (2 children)

I personally am pretty happy with my 2.4, although I would suggest skipping the cable chains and going to an umbilical. I went the nitehawk route. If you're going to be printing ASA or ABS add an under bed carbon filter and bedfans. I would also suggest skipping to ACM panels if you plan on big ASA/ABS prints.

If you dig through my comments you can see me talking about it. Mechanical bed leveling, that actually squares the gantary to the bed, and Z calibration make for very consistent first layers.

[โ€“] IMALlama@lemmy.world 5 points 3 weeks ago* (last edited 3 weeks ago) (4 children)

$1,200 is Voron and RatRig territory. Vorons cap out at 350 mm^3^ for build volume and 500mm^3^ rat rigs are $1,550. I agree that plenty of folks are probably over buy on printers, but if you want this kind of build volume the price seems reasonable - especially for a printer that ships assembled. Personally, I went the Voron route and if I wanted a larger printer I would probably either just make my 350mm taller or go the RatRig route.

That said, high velocity on a large format printer isn't that useful for big prints IMO. You're probably going be running a bigger nozzle and laying down wide/tall extrusions, which means you're probably going to be limited by how fast your extruder can melt plastic. That's the case on my Voron with a Rapido HF with "only" a 0.6mm nozzle, 0.8mm extrusion widths, and 0.3mm layer heights.

[โ€“] IMALlama@lemmy.world 3 points 3 weeks ago

Not OP, but wanted to chime in.

I get the sentiment Some Gen Xers did grow up with home computers. However, I suspect those people are outliers due to both the cost and general user friendlyness. In the late 90s it seemed like everyone had a home computer, even the normies. This let their kids grow up messing around

It almost seems like we're heading back in this direction, where normies have moved on to phones and tablets because they "just work". I don't think the average kid will grow up as immersed in computers as I did unless their parents are intentionally about making that introduction. I bought my kid a used Thinkpad for Christmas last year. Most of his peers have tablets or just stick to their smartphone.

[โ€“] IMALlama@lemmy.world 6 points 3 weeks ago

These units are somewhat silly IMO. It all comes down to volumetric flow. Big nozzle + thick extrusions + thick layers would probably mean needing to print slower than that speed due to the ability of a hot end to melt the filament.

/ someone who has been mm^3/s constrained for a while now

[โ€“] IMALlama@lemmy.world 11 points 3 weeks ago* (last edited 3 weeks ago) (1 children)

For quite some time now, Marlin has been the firmware of choice for any kind of custom 3D printer, with only Klipper offering some serious competition in the open-source world

Confused Voron noises

It does seem like an interesting concept, but I wonder how much benefit it will have, both in tuning effort and final outcome.

[โ€“] IMALlama@lemmy.world 2 points 3 weeks ago

Get your self a "fast" lens and you'll be back to hand holding pretty quickly. Granted, you'll lose depth of field so this may not work for every shot. Prime lenses are your best bet here. f/1.4 should be plenty but f/1.8 or even f/2 will do.

You can use the exposure information from the photos you took to play the "if I had a faster lens, what kind of ISO and shutter speed could I get away with". The zoo lights photos I posted a few days ago in one of my comments were hand held.

EV calculator

[โ€“] IMALlama@lemmy.world 10 points 3 weeks ago

That your company has an in-house software dev team is impressive. Does the revenue-generating business have access to that team?

Not OP, but in a similar situation. We have in-house dev for both tooling/infrastructure as well as revenue generation. For better or worse, leaders have neglected the software tooling and infrastructure that we use to build and deliver our revenue generating software for decades. Some serious cracks in the foundation showing and we might finally start fixing things.

[โ€“] IMALlama@lemmy.world 2 points 3 weeks ago

I find that I'm really choosy with which landscape photos I like, but I really like the post photo and the first photo in the post. Nice work!

[โ€“] IMALlama@lemmy.world 4 points 3 weeks ago

Thanks for sharing! First time growing zucchini? Some of them can get massive if they get away from you. We were gone for 10 weeks in July a few years ago and came back to one that was nearly as long as out toddler was tall.

 

This is a vaguely arty shot I took with my A9ii when I was renting the 70-200 f/2.8.

200mm, f/3.2, ISO 100, 1/800

 

I have a cheap/quick/dirty deer and rabbit fence around our vegetable garden. The doors are simple PVC squares with deer netting that used to attach to the fence via hooks at the top. This design turned out to be very fiddly. The new design seems much easier to manage - simply drop the door section into its slot.

 

/old man

 

Title basically. I've found myself playing youth sports team photographer, which I don't mind doing but we're going to have two kids in little league this season and I'm not looking forward to culling two team's worth of games. I've gotten better at framing and catching fielding action over the past year, I get pictures of my own kids, and the rest of the parents on the team seem to appreciate the photos, so woo. But! I'm very interested in tips to make the process of culling shots a bit faster.

Each game I try to get a hero shot per kid batting (getting a hit, bonus points if the ball is in frame), along with some general fielding shots. I come home with a metric crap ton of photos since getting a hero shot basically means bursting any time our team is at bat for every pitch.

I try to make sure each kid has roughly equal representation in the final album, regardless of how many (or few) hits each kid actually got.

I've found that it's easiest to sort photos by kid and cull from there, but I'm doing this completely manually in photo mechanic. I've dabbled in AI tools, but I don't really know what's out there. It seems like sorting all the photos with the most prominent face in the frame, and using context of being mid burst if a face is lost, automatically would be a massive time savings. Does such software exist? I don't want to pull out every face in the frame, just the biggest/sharpest one. Is there a better option for youth sports? A better approach to apply in photo mechanic?

Any/all advice welcome!

 

Raspberries are escaping their raised bed after two years :( I really don't want them to spread beyond it. what to do? Bury a tarp under the mulch? Dig a trench around the bed? Roundup?

 

One more picture below.

Behold, rebar clamps to give my veggies a nice climbing structure.

They're 3 total parts and are held together heat sets and bolts.

 

I was walking my 4 year old to T-ball practice and noticed these buds. All I had was my phone, so....

I do try to bring my 'real' camera with me most of the time, but haven't been bringing it to their practices since I get game photos.

100
submitted 3 months ago* (last edited 3 months ago) by IMALlama@lemmy.world to c/3dprinting@lemmy.world
 

The joys of parts with not friendly printing geometry. There's another cylindrical recess running at 90 degrees to the one that's visible in this photo.

Apologies for the very obvious layer lines. Harsh direct overhead lighting makes them a lot more obvious. The prints are much better in person, I promise.

Edit: Finished part showing the second cylindrical recess. They're both dimensionally important, which is why the parts weren't printed flat.

 

This is one of those shots.

I live near an office park with a pretty reflective building. I've been thinking about trying to get a sunset photo reflecting off the building for a while now, but I have younger kids and sunsets and bedtimes coincide with each other for a good portion of the year. One morning I noticed that sunrises were fairly colorful, but instead of getting a reflection standing in a field I was now in a parking lot.

Reasons why I'm not a fan of this shot:

  • parking lot! I could crop it out, but then there would be nothing in the foreground and I'm not sure I would be a fan
  • I shot this with my 35mm, which means that I was fairly close to the building and looking up. This means less sunrise in the reflection (oh, you mean that's what the color in the bottom right is?). I should have probably used the long end of my telephoto, but I didn't have it with me and also didn't have much time
  • The joys of architectural photography without a tilt shift lens
  • I should have squared up to the building a bit better so at least one line was vertical

Live and learn. I'll try again this summer when the sun goes down after the kids are asleep and I have more time.

 

I recently installed LDO's version of the Clicky-Clack Fridge Door on my Voron 2.4 350.

My 2.4 is stock in terms of heating other than having the filter, ACM panels, and 2x bed fans.

Takeaways?

  • If you want to make graphs, make sure you have comparable conditions. I was printing during both graphs and the prints had different aspect ratios (before was taller than wide, after was wider than tall). This probably explains why before appears to have heated faster
  • The better sealing door, with thicker acrylic did help chamber temps, but only by 3 degrees C
  • It takes a very long time to heat soak a 350mm^3 chamber, even with 4x bed fans
  • I wish I had a graph before I swapped the ACM panels on, but I don't and the panels are gone :(

I will be lining my panels with radiant insulation in the next week or three and will report back what, if any, changes that makes.

 

Or not, but there was an attempt!

 

Just a cellphone photo that's not particularly well framed, but I liked the contrast between dark trees and the sky. Bonus points for some snow.

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