JayEll1969

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If you set up your tripod and took a photo of a subject with a 600, 300, 150 and 75mm lens all from the same place, then cropped the 300, 150 and 75mm images to the same as the 600 then the main difference would be the resolution, as you have to crop away more and more of the image.

If, however, at each step you moved the tripod forward half the distance then the subject would stay the same size but because the camera is getting closer each time the perspective to the background would be changing and the FOV would appear totally different because of that.

The longer focal length means that you can fill the frame with the subject from further away without having to crop into it as much.

You'll hit a point where you sill start getting worse results - not necessarily because of the lens but because of the atmospheric conditions. Heat haze caused by he sun heating up the ground will give a mirage like image and start to blur objects further away - tyhis all depends on location and conditions.

How would an AI know what you were focusing on? There might be a number of shots where the majority of people are slightly out of focus of have closed eyes but aren't the subject of the shot along with the ones that the subject is blurred.

Let's say you were taking photos of the family dog, and the people closer/farther away in the shot ended up out of focus, but the dog comes out great. How is the AI going to grade those shots? Of if you are taking a scenic shot of a building or vista and there's people in the scene?

How would an AI know what you were taking the photo of?

OK you have two different thing.

Mount convertors take lenses meant for a different camara system and let them be used on yours. They dork because the flange distance (the distance between the lens and the sensor) is greater in the original system than on the new system - if you look at DLSR then they had a big mirror in between the sensor and the lens so adapting these lensed to a mirrorless camera means you need to hold the lens the same space away from the sensor as it would have been on the DLSR.

So that gap in the mount adapter is to make sure that the lens is the correct normal distance away from the sensor to get infinity focus.

Macro tubes are meant to be put inbetween a camera sensor and a lens that is already at the correct distance from the sensor.

This means that it is now pushed forward to the "wrong" distance. Because of the way lenses work when focusing at the closest working distance items that are closer to the lens will be focused to a point behind the sensor, these tubes pus the lens forward from their normal positions so that the focus points for these closer objects end up on the sensor.

The down side to this is that the focusing points for infinity or far away objects are pushed forward too much and you can no longer focus on these to bring them sharp on the sensor.

The amount it lets you get closer depends on the size of the tubes, which then influences the magnification you can get. To get true macro 1:1 magnification you need to add tubes of the same focal length as the lens.

Don't worry about asking - ask them anything you need to know. It's not about not picking up on social clues as these can be misleading, so for clarity and your own ease of mind you need to ask. If the photographer gets irked that you are asking them questions then bail out on them.

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p.s. take someone with you to the shoot.

How high is high up?

Why not get a tall light stand?

For the same lens?

The f stop is the relationship to the apparent aperture opening (as looked at through the front of the lens) and the focal length of the lens. This doesn't matter if it is on a crop sensor, full frame sensor, medium format sensor or just sitting on your desk not connected to a camera as looking through the front will always give you the same size for the same fstop.

A 50mm lens at F2.8 on a crop sensor camera will give you exactly the same depth of field and light as a 50mm lens at F2.8 on a full frame.

The difference is that the crop sensor uses less of the image circle so appears to be a narrower lens. This is where the crop factor comes into effect. The crop factor was invented in the early days of professional digital cameras, when there were no sensors that covered the full frame at the time.

It is a concept invented so that professional photographers who had years experience using 35mm film cameras could compare the field of view on the new digital cameras and select the correct lens.

After years of using the 35mm lenses they could look at a scene and know which lens they needed, but with the new smaller sensor digital cameras this would result in to cropped an image so the crop factor was used to make it easier to work out that they needed a 25mm lens when their eye's told them a 50mm full frame lens was needed.

So now that 25mm lens gives them the field of view of the 50mm, but it's still a 25mm and as the short focal length you use the deeper the depth of field you get for a given aperture, you would still have the depth of field of a 25mm at f2.8.

This is when they realised that the crop factor would also work in the description of the depth of field. So this meant that they would say that a 25mm f2.8 is the equivalent of a full frame 50mm f5.8 – but this only equated to the depth of field and not the light gathering capabilities of the lens.

All of these are parameters of the lens, they don't affect the shutter speed so the shutter speed stays the same. It also only relates to the physical size of the sensors and does not take into account the resolutions of the sensors being compared.

Digikam is free and has facial recognition. Works on Windows, Mac and Linux

Belt and braces approach is best.

I use a Terramaster F5-422 which is a 5 bay NAS. One bay has an SSD to act as a cache and improve access speeds and the other 4 have 8TB drives set up as a TRAID array. TRAID is like a raid 5 but allows drives of different capacities to be used. I connect this to my PC and Labtop via a 10GB network so I can edit straight off it at a decent speed. I export different directories to my PC for different usage (Photos, Video, Movies, etc) so that each has it's own drive associated with it on my PC and Laptop.

I can back the whole NAS or (more useful) specific directories to the cloud.

I also have a 10tb external HD connected to my main PC just in case.