Both, three rotations after the threads catch.
One or none bears the risk of the connector coming out crooked and bending the pins, causing a potential alignment issue on the next connection and bending them further.
Romkslrqusz
joined 1 year ago
Notice that it’s never people who have the mouse complaining about the port location.
A brief 1-2 minute charge nets you hours of use, it’s really not a big deal.
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After you power the system on, does pressing the capslock key cause the corresponding light on the keyboard to change states?
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Once the system is powered on, does the monitor and its backlight stay on? Or does it fall back to a “no signal” mode?
I’d be looking at a used 2070/Super or 3060/Ti in your situation.
If you’re on Windows, consider that you have a year of support left with Windows 10. You can buy further security updates from Microsoft, from 0patch, or with an “unsupported” Windows 11 upgrade. There’s also Linux if the games you want to play are supported :)
With that in mind, you can consider the alternative of limping along with what you’ve got and saving for the next year to do a more substantial upgrade / overhaul.
Even at the top end (RTX 4090) performance difference between PCI 3.0 and 4.0 is pretty negligible.
What framerate are you targeting?
I find it highly unusual that your CPU is reaching 100% in TF2 of all games.
Your system also shouldn’t be “unresponsive in general use” with these specifications.
Based on paper specifications alone, I’d be leaning towards the 3060/3070 as the most meaningful upgrade in gaming performance. However, I suspect there may be an issue with your software environment or an undiagnosed hardware issue.
With Windows 10 support ending in a matter of days, that leaves the latest Microsoft OS as the only real option for gamers right now
Windows 10 support ends in 2025. Linux is a very real option for the majority of games.
Given the idiocy in this article, I wouldn’t be surprised if it didn’t occur to them to delete Windows.old from an external software environment. Ultimately, that’s something you want to keep around for a while because it’s what lets you roll back the upgrade if there turns out to out to be problems.
Might be cozy because of the nostalgia more than anything else, but I’ve been cruising through the Turok remasters
The screenshot for the article depicts the copilot key on the “context menu” key
Is there any way to find out whether it supports SSD storage?
Have a look at the notch in the slot. SSDs will have either M key, B+M key, or very rarely just B key.
WiFi modules are A, E, or A+E
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You’ve already got answers about rice so I won’t comment on that.
Once you’ve noted the corroded places, clean it by using 99% isopropyl alcohol and an ESD brush. In lieu of an ESD brush, a regular toothbrush is usually fine but best practice is to adhere to ESD protocols.
The main area you won’t be able to get to is the BGA underneath some of the ICs. To clean under there, the board would need to be put through an ultrasonic cleaner.
I usually give any wet board 24 hours to dry with a fan circulating air over it, flipping the board around the 12 hour mark. Humidity is usually 30-60% where I live.