Virkkunen

joined 1 year ago
[–] Virkkunen@fedia.io 5 points 4 months ago* (last edited 4 months ago)

I'm using a 3080 under Plasma, and I thought 555 was doing great, since I could finally use electron apps without input lag or flickers. I didn't bother much with gaming since VRR does't work if the NVIDIA GPU has more than one display enabled on it (you can use a second GPU or an iGPU to workaround that). I decided to give it a go anyways, wrote a script that turns off my second screen when I open a game and enables it again when it closes.

Unfortunately, 555 was unusable for me. After a short while, Xwayland would crash and either Steam and the game would instantly close or my entire system would freeze, requiring a reboot. I thought this was an issue with Steam, so after some extensive log collection, I opened an issue on their GitHub and shortly after a dev analysed them and told me that my issue was likely due to explicit sync, and asked me to downgrade to a pre-explicit sync driver.

I went back to 550.90 and my crashes stopped completely. It also stopped a coredump spam of glsdisplay by Steam, and also fixed a power draw bug in which my GPU would never go below 100W, even on idle. I never had issues with games flickering previously, and I still don't have it now, and I was able to fix the electron apps flicker and input lag by setting ELECTRON_OZONE_PLATFORM_HINT=wayland on my env, so for now I'm sticking to 550.

I also opened a bug report on NVIDIA's forums and I'm waiting for any input.

[–] Virkkunen@fedia.io 1 points 4 months ago (1 children)

That... Makes sense, really. And how would you do on about it? Just switching the cable to the motherboard IO? No need to use stuff like optimus?

Sadly I will have to live with this issue since my 5900x has no iGPU, but I do plan to upgrade to a 7800x3d

[–] Virkkunen@fedia.io 6 points 4 months ago

The input lag and flickering on Electron apps was fixed with the explicit sync drivers.

[–] Virkkunen@fedia.io 4 points 4 months ago (4 children)

VRR does not work if you have a NVIDIA card and more than one monitor enabled. If you disable extra monitors it'll work, but that's hardly a workaround (and it's one of the main reasons I'm still on Windows).

I'm also getting a lot of xwayland crashes while playing or simply when trying to drag a window, those crashes freeze my entire PC and I have to reboot.

To be fair, most, if not all of my issues preventing me from fully moving to Linux seem to be fixed by using an AMD card, but I'm not in the market for a new card (I have a 3080) nor do I want to lose DLSS, which is a game changer to me.

[–] Virkkunen@fedia.io 9 points 4 months ago (3 children)

RCS does not go through Google servers. RCS with Google's profile do, which is not the case with Apple as they are using the universal profile.

[–] Virkkunen@fedia.io 25 points 4 months ago* (last edited 4 months ago) (2 children)

From my experience using Plasma 6+ and a NVIDIA card, I keep HDR on on my main display (Odyssey Neo G7).

No issues with washed out colours on the desktop, everything looks fine

I can watch HDR videos using the included Haruna player or MPV.

Firefox has no HDR support outside Mac OS, so no HDR on YouTube.

For games, it depends. Some games can detect HDR and work fine, but for most I have to use gamescope, which in itself brings some issues like not having the Steam overlay, games freezing randomly or just having terrible performance due to niceness (everything has a workaround though, but that requires some tinkering). Check my comments about the issues and workarounds

For game scope running HDR, there's a lot of people and guides telling you to use countless flags that don't really do anything at all. The best thing to do is to read its documentation. I use the following flags as startup parameters on my Steam games:

gamemoderun gamescope  -W 3840 -H 2160 -r 165 --hdr-enabled --hdr-itm-enable --hdr-itm-sdr-nits 300 -f -e --mangoapp -- %command%

gamemoderun just enables game-mode, which can bring some small performance improvements.

-W -H -r flags are to determine resolution and desired refresh rate. You might be able to omit those flags but I have had some issues with that.

--hdr-enabled is the only flag needed to get HDR working. Nothing else. (except from enabling it on your DE)

--hdr-itm-enable --hdr-itm-sdr-nits are for inverse tone mapping for non HDR games, it's the same as Windows Auto HDR.

-f is full-screen, but to be fair I don't think this one is doing anything, but I need to test better.

-e is to enable Steam integration, which should be the overlay and input, but its broken (there's a workaround, check the last comment made by me there)

--mangoapp is to run mangohud, this flag is preferred over running mangohud before %command%. It's partially broken this way because it does not dispaly the GPU or gamemode info. Running it as mangohud works 100% fine but apparently there are some issues with it that are beyond my knowledge.

[–] Virkkunen@fedia.io 20 points 4 months ago

You can install beta NVIDIA drivers with Optimus on A laptop and you'll be able to see the fat Tux!

[–] Virkkunen@fedia.io 4 points 4 months ago* (last edited 4 months ago)

They do but only on Bluetooth/Switch mode and has a very low polling rate. On my Deck it only works if I turn my controller off and on twice.

[–] Virkkunen@fedia.io 9 points 4 months ago (1 children)

These aren't official, just probably licensed to be able to use Steam branding.

[–] Virkkunen@fedia.io 15 points 5 months ago* (last edited 5 months ago) (5 children)

There are two types of underscreen sensors. The ultrasonic ones work great, even better than the back sensors I've used. Your finger taps and it's unlocked, simple as that.

The second type are the optical sensors, and these are the bad ones. You tap it and have to hold for the scan to complete, but it might fail because the screen is slightly smudged, or the light didnt hit your finger on the right angle, the room might be too dark/bright...

[–] Virkkunen@fedia.io 1 points 5 months ago

Brazil's PIX is revolutionary, really. It's instant 24/7 transfers that don't depend on which bank you're using and does not need a third party app. Pretty much if you have a bank account, you already have PIX.

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