I've photographed (indoor) volleyball for two seasons.
I used a zoom initially, but then settled on using 50mm and 35mm primes, depending on location (35mm court-side vs 50mm up in the bleachers). Then I crop photos liberally in post.
I typically keep the settings at 1/250, f5.6 or f8, and use auto ISO. I like the wider aperture to help focus the viewer on a specific player/scene, and the narrower aperture for photos that need multiple players in focus.
I mostly concentrate on a single player at a time (camera focused on player or location, not the ball), and use back button focus.
Also, at least for my camera (Nikon D780), I have to press the shutter slightly before when I think the photo needs to be taken. That could just be my reaction time and the speed of play, not the camera itself.
I typically take 100-300 shots a game, and narrow them down to 10-30 keepers.
Also, even if I like a photo compositionally or its a great action shot, I'll delete the photo if it makes the player(s) look unflattering.
I've photographed (indoor) volleyball for two seasons.
I used a zoom initially, but then settled on using 50mm and 35mm primes, depending on location (35mm court-side vs 50mm up in the bleachers). Then I crop photos liberally in post.
I typically keep the settings at 1/250, f5.6 or f8, and use auto ISO. I like the wider aperture to help focus the viewer on a specific player/scene, and the narrower aperture for photos that need multiple players in focus.
I mostly concentrate on a single player at a time (camera focused on player or location, not the ball), and use back button focus.
Also, at least for my camera (Nikon D780), I have to press the shutter slightly before when I think the photo needs to be taken. That could just be my reaction time and the speed of play, not the camera itself.
I typically take 100-300 shots a game, and narrow them down to 10-30 keepers.
Also, even if I like a photo compositionally or its a great action shot, I'll delete the photo if it makes the player(s) look unflattering.