Don’t be scared of high iso. It can be reduced fairly effectively in post, and chances are you won’t see most of it anyways. High iso is only generally a problem for pixel peepers. Noise is most visible in the shadows and darker portions of an image so the better job properly exposing your image, the lower the visible noise to start with.
this post was submitted on 22 Oct 2023
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ML Noise reduction tool added to LR recently is amazing.
So don't be afraid to raise the ISO to get the motion blur you want
If you don’t mind hitting the images in post, you can set the iso to the highest you’re comfortable with, aperture wide open, and then go to the shutter speed you can get, and shoot 1-1 1/3 stop under. Shooting raw, you can recover that in post. I prefer this method over relying on iso noise reduction. I’ve seen some to -2 but it’s a matter of how muddy you’re willing to shoot it.
I shoot sports photography though mostly outside during the day but my process for selecting settings is I start with the shutter speed - I want it fast enough that I freeze the action - generally on a sunny day this is like 1/1000 but I can drop it down a fair bit if required.
Then I set my aperture which I start with what's going to get the best sharpness but then I also drop this down a bit if the light isn't good.
And lastly I just set my iso to auto. If the iso goes too high then I probably wouldn't have got a good shot anyway if my other settings were different, so you just try not to worry about it too much.
For indoor volleyball with ok lighting in gyms I would consistently use around 1/400 for decent freezing of action with reasonable iso on full frame with a 2.8 aperture. Slightly more if lighting allowed. 1/320 was pretty much minimum for any action shots.