Rolive

Is this feasible at all?

My idea is to have a battery of 112 Li Ion cells in series, ending up with a nominal voltage of about 414V. This is apparently how car batteries are configured as well and it's the easiest for an EGS002 inverter.

Charging however is quite difficult as stepping up to those voltages is not trivial.

The idea is to have a charge pump circuit on every single cell. 2 mosfets for charging, a capacitor, 2 mosfets for discharging. The capacitor would charge from a 4.2V supply and discharge into the battery.

The mosfets on the battery side can be controlled with optocouplers. The gate voltage is provided by cells further up in the chain so the gate always has at least 12V on it.

Is this a bad idea? Things that come to mind are the mosfet losses. Essentially the on resistance counts 4 times per cell but usually the rDS on is in the 20 mOhm range, so 80 mOhm per cell.

Balancing is much easier this way.

Perhaps a compromise that charges several cells in series and watches the balancing could work too if efficiency is the biggest reason against this.

I'm aware of the safety considerations.

This is a customized version of the Ender 5 Mercury One.1 mod. I had two 10mm rods lying around that would fit the X axis and wanted to use the MGN12 rail for a custom CNC project instead. Please check the Printables link for more information as well as a FreeCAD file.

https://www.printables.com/model/1399143-ender-5-mercury-one1-x-10mm-rod-mod

I also think that having the hotend centered between two rails may allow for a larger reachable print area at some point. Later I want to remake the way the heated bed is mounted so that a larger bed can be used while still having the same Ender 5 footprint.

I don't think this should still be called an Ender 5 and this point. Perhaps a Frankender will do.

Right now all it has is a plotter adding but I'm also making a mount for a mill and lasercutter. It's meant mostly for making circuit boards but should be able to handle other projects as well.

It's designed in FreeCAD and some parts were sourced from discarded laboratory devices from my job as well as a broken 3D printer.

Here's a link to the FreeCAD in its current form. I'm not happy about Google but this is to be shared for free so it's okay.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TaGmB2l-2IpyjhtpyuxbR6gJtIwyiHvx/view?usp=drivesdk

Right now it's a bit messy but I intend to post it to printables.com later when it's fully done.

The video is sped up 8x. I think it can handle this speed realtime as well.

3D printer toolheads often have large blower fans with big fan ducts ending in small holes and I wonder how necessary that is.

These large part cooling setups are most of the size of the toolhead and significantly reduce print area. Blower fans also do not produce much pressure so those fan ducts greatly reduce their effectiveness.

Does it make sense to, instead of using a blower fan, use a small compressor like for an aquarium and have the airflow delivered Bowden style to a small nozzle? The airflow would be substantially higher than from a fan. Noise isn't really an issue for a tiny compressor.

Has anyone tried this? I might eventually but don't have the time to set it up now.

This is a WIP and at this point don't know if it's going to be successful or not. I'm currently building it. The idea is to use the Mercury One build but modify it so that it uses 10mm rods on the X axis instead of an aluminium extrusion with an MGN12 rail. I have a set of these rods on hand and want to use the MGN12 rail on a DIY CNC instead. These rods seem good enough for a 3D printer and I don't want to waste them.

I have decided to modify the Mercury One so that it has a different X assembly and a completely custom toolhead that houses the stock Ender5 hotend or a MicroSwiss hotend coupled with an Orbiter 1.5 extruder. Later I'll make a different toolhead for a better hotend but for now the MicroSwiss is good enough.

The red parts are original MercuryOne parts, the green ones are the ones I designed. I haven't bothered with rounding or chamfering yet. I have also imported some things from GrabCAD such as the BLtouch, hotend and fans.

This is quite the Frankenstein creation and I wonder, what am I supposed to call it? It barely resembles an Ender5 at this point, only the frame does.

I feel a bit bad for still using Gdrive but here's the FreeCAD file. I only put things in Gdrive that I want to share publicly so idc if they spy on me. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WFskq_OpdML4qeyOsKfkcaarW1QUJOB5/view?usp=sharing

Hi all. Does anyone have experience with the BMSs from Daly? I'm looking to get a 16s BMS for a DIY li ion battery pack. I have a large box full of li ion 18650 cells and want to make an emergency battery system for home use.

That power outage in Spain motivated me to finish this project.

This is for older car models that do not have built-in navigation or bad navigation. My car is old enough to have a cassette player.

This model is made for a Toyota Yaris from 2001 and the phone inside is an S21 Ultra that would otherwise have been sitting in a drawer.

I have sacrificed the original sunvisor to get the swivel part out and modeled a new sunvisor around it. Since this car is really old it's okay to make these modifications.

So far the driving experience has improved a lot, it is a pretty decent location for a navigation system since you can focus on driving much more easily than having to look down and to the right.

The models and FreeCAD design file may be found here:

https://www.printables.com/model/1256013-toyota-yaris-sun-visor-with-navigation-phone

We are going to Vietnam this year for holiday and I've read horror stories of poorly distilled alcohol in cocktails and such. Several tourists have died from methanol poisoning.

Would it be feasible to build a small detector for methanol? I'm okay with either a small chemical identification test or something like an IR spectrum analysis.

There are commercial test kits for professional laboratories but I need something affordable for regular consumers.

This is UV sensitive solder mask resin, applied as thin as possible using a silk screen mesh. Afterwards it's heated at about 90C for 10 minutes. This makes it more sensitive to UV light by evaporating most of the solvent.

It is exposed with a 405nm laser at about 250mw of power. I intentionally unfocused the laser for a spot size of about 0.5nm

After exposure the pads are easily cleaned off with some IPA.

I'm currently using an Orbiter 1.5 and it's pretty decent but I'm looking for an upgrade. I like the light style extruder sitting on the gantry over a Bowden system as it allows for flexible filament and has much better control over retraction.

Is the 2.0 a significant improvement over the 1.5? Should I get a new hotend as well with it?

Right now I'm using a MicroSwiss all metal hotend and am quite satisfied with it.

Print speed is okay I guess.

Hi all

I've made a detachable toolhead mod for an Ender 5 that uses an MGN12 linear rail on the X axis. It also assumes using an Orbiter 1.5 extruder. The idea is to be able to switch between 3D printing, lasercutting and very light milling easily. The main purpose is to be able to use the Ender 5 for PCB making and that is what the small drill unit is good enough for.

Let me know what you think and feel free to remix it for your own setup!

Hi all

Does anyone have any experience with this kit? I'm interested in the linear rail upgrade and CoreXY as well for higher printspeeds.

I sometimes attach a small PCB drill to my Ender5 to help with diy PCBs and may want to try basic CNC milling as well with it.

There are two kits for the Ender5, one for the Ender5 Pro and Ender5 Plus. The difference is in the size of the linear rails. Do the rails for the Ender5 Plus fit on the Ender5? On paper they are smaller than the size of the frame and in the future I might upgrade the Ender 5 to a bigger frame. I don´t mind if they stick out a little bit if it makes upgradability better.