I've been using it for years and I think it's great. Currently on a 6 Pro. It's true that some apps don't work without Google Play services, but GrapheneOS has the option to install the google stuff in a sandbox, so you shouldn't run into any issues if you do that. Personally, I don't use Play services unless I need to, and use Aurora store for any apps that aren't on F-Droid.
In any case, you can always revert to stock or try another OS
Edit: as faede has pointed out, it appears that Google Wallet has issues. Also, the usage docs mention issues with banking apps in general, so that's something to consider