Grass

Edit: It was the extruder. One of the belt gears sheared off, and there was enough friction between the pieces that it still worked at slower speed, even well enough for the calibration test prints I tried. I had spares that I printed ages ago and now it works.

I started getting this weird exterior wall defect that I haven't seen before. Calibration testers come out clean though and it's driving me insane.

Using orca slicer with an e3 switchwire trying to print parts for my other printer so I can rebuild this one into something not a switchwire.

The other day someone asked what kind of music I listen to and I said frank schauthiggua, they asked what genre and I said mostly cerebral catwave. It seemed like he took it seriously or he was really good at pretending to know what that is. I at least think I made those up. His reaction made me question...

I have almost no idea what any of the more specific genre tags I see on a lot of songs even mean. Has anyone already made something like a list of genres with some examples?

Edit: Thanks everyone, I'll check those on my next break or maybe when I get home if they get on my case about headphones at work

The political and gundam memes my coworkers sent me got face recognized but it won't do it for my family photos...

Edit: Changed clip model and some facial rec parameters and got... more meme faces. Some additional tweaks and I got one family member and one of my birds. It goddamn recognises bird faces.

and holy shit it recognized my hideous drivers licence pic as me.

It's actually kinda useful for sorting memes too...

My power button clicks and feels normal. It doesn't work in any situation at all. I can turn on the deck from off by plugging in the cord and if it's already on but screen off I can only wait for it to die or open the shell and disconnect the battery.

This deck has: full shell swap, replaced worn cap and drifting stick with hall effect sticks, aftermarket buttons, replacement screen, aftermarket 1tb nvme, always had L1 require addititonal force after the click to work.

All mods were done at the same time and had no problems apart from L1 for enough time to finish spiderman, miles morales, 80% of FFVIIR, Act 1 of BG3 7 times, All of evoland 1 and 2 plus againnin legendary edition, both god of war and ragnarok, expedition 33 up to the snow area, both subnautica games, and a bunch of friendslop titles in between.

About a month ago power button stopped working and I haven't had the motivation to deal with it but I took it apart a little bit today, saw that the power button likely requires removing the mobo, and went back to not feeling like it.

Has anyone done a successful diy powerswitch repair? Ifixit only has instructions for the plastic piece on top, though the switch itself is probably a generic piece. I'll attempt valve if it's the only option but I don't really want to deal with mailing out the damned thing especially if its just going to get rejected and blamed on the mods.

could a resin printed fdm toolhead hold out long enough for minimal calibration and printing a new one? I have been considering getting a resin printer for miniatures friends have been requesting and it would be a way to get the parts needed to repair my fdm printers fully at home.

I'm getting a tad frustrated with the movies that get downloaded by my radarr setup. Mostly its the letterboxing being encoded in the file which on an ultrawide results in a full black border. Also just shoddy quality even on huge files.

With anime there is seadex and some reviewers here and there that give opinions on the best release to grab, but is there something like that for movies or is there only trash guides? One of the things that I've seen in anime reviews is that sometimes the bluray is plain old worse quality compared to the streaming platforms. Does anyone know of places where that gets noted?

Should I just download the largest file and get hardware encode and decode supporting gpu? Will I have encryption problems if I self encode from disk rips instead of using media player ready files?

I have a pixel 6a with graphene installed. I want to transfer everything to a second pixel 6a but the digitizer is toast. I tried mouse via usb a to c dongle to get in and back stuff up, but it doesn't work on lock screen presumably until it is unlocked once with the mouse plugged in, as with the new one.

really any backup method that can work will do if there are any.

So I used something like these some years ago to recover data off a phone, but I was wondering if the reverse is possible in having a bga soldered adapter with a microsd slot on top. Or if PCBs can even be soldered together like that. I've never actually checked if bga chips have raised pads or something. The purpose would be for rapidly testing custom firmware for shitty old devices that were designed to be replaced without removing the emmc to flash it separately.

I'm currently using the blocklists included with unbound in opnsense on a mini PC and I have used pihole on a pi which now operates my 3d printers instead. I haven't tried any of the other network wide options. Has anyone made any blog posts or similar detailing performance testing of different options?

I have an 8 person household with each person having at least a phone and computer and probably some consoles or something. I haven't noticed any obvious differences but whitelisting seemingly can't be done in bulk efficiently with my current setup.

We are all going to be moving in the coming months so I am revisiting different aspects of the home network and trying to figure out what can be improved and if anything is irritating enough in it's current state to tolerate a potential performance loss.

So I've run mods on a bunch of different games which were downloaded and installed with the deck alone. No man's sky, lethal company, Subnautica, etc. with generally no problems but some modding software run through wine had visual bugs but the games worked as intended.

So I thought I'd try something bigger and install fallout ttw. I installed the base games from gog without issue, and MO2 ran fine with my overridden default of wine-ge. Even the ttw installer seems to work... slowly. I started it two days ago and the picture is now. I guess some mods you really are better off using a beefier computer and transferring the final product.

I want to link my brother's network to my own in the lowest maintenance and power consumption way possible. I want to be able to remote admin the computer and for his devices to access my network storage and potentially other stuff eventually.

My home network: Cable modem from ISP in bridge mode AliExpress Intel n100, 4x i226v, running opnsense bare metal Generic switch Wifi AP Multiple old computers and sbc's for self host stuff and 3d printers. Tons of wifi devices due to 10 person household.

Brother's network: ISP modem with built in wifi in default mode. Everything is wifi except tv and the previously mentioned computer. 2 person household.

I had previously tried using wireguard on an openwrt router on both ends, one a nanopi r5s and the other an orangepi r1 plus lts. I think I ran into issues with being unable to install packages due to being out of date or something. I tried compiling openwrt myself but it would fail and diagnosing that was beyond me. At the time the r5s was my home router.

I'm looking for recommendations for how I could connect at least his wired devices as if they were part of my network. Unfortunately it seems I'm still at the point where I don't even know what I don't know when it comes to networking.