36.5°c for people who use sane units ;)
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As much as I like the metric system, temperature in the world is the one place where I prefer Fahrenheit. Having to care about decimal points on a thermostat just seems like trying too hard. "Oh honey, could you turn the thermostat down to 21.1C?"
You know that 100 is hot as balls. You know 0 is cold AF. 0C is 32F. That's not really that cold, I'm shoveling snow in a t-shirt. 0F is really that cold. It is almost more akin to a percent of comfort scale than a measurement of temperature.
It is an interesting thought experiment though, as anyone using a given measurement scale gets used to it over time. I've been doing dual for a while to better intuit fuzzy translations in my head without having to run a formula every time.
Just an opinion of course, and not trying to have some flagrant discussion. I'd gladly switch to Celsius if we ever finally left Freedom Units. Thus far, the only places you see it in the US is in science, medical, and pop companies selling 16.9fl oz (just shy of 500ml) beverages instead of 20, so they can milk their bubble sugar water for all the profits.
No one calls out decimals in Celsius. Unless you are measuring your kids fever. 38.1 vs 38.5 vs 38.9 you know that it's time to ready the metamizole if it keeps creeping up like that
0°C is the frost point of water. If you know it will dip below that during the night, you can prepare your plants, driveway, kids (I'm sorry my love summer is over), pets, clothes, etc the day prior.
-40° is -40° though, doesn't matter if it's F or C. The best part of both scales.
Copying this post I made elsewhere recently:
I used to say this. But being a curious person, and one willing to test my own hypothesis, I decided to learn Celsius. Like, spend enough time with it to intuitively understand it, so that I could compare the two.
Almost six years later, I haven’t switched back. I much prefer Celsius for weather. Having 0° at freezing is far more useful than I suspected it would be, and having less granular degrees gives them more meaning, which makes understanding them easier.
Seriously, I struggle to express just how useful below-freezing temperatures being negative is. -5°C means so much more to me than 23°F, and that’s after thirty years of using Fahrenheit and only six of using Celsius.
Edit: this isn’t to discount what you’re saying, just to offer my own opinion on the matter. Having experienced both, I much prefer Celsius. But obviously everyone will have their own opinions.
What is that?
It's a large capacitor. They are used in those big outdoor AC units to kick start the ~~fan~~ compressor. Being outdoors and subject to large temperature changes and vibrations for years they inevitably fail.
https://static.homeguide.com/assets/images/content/homeguide-technician-replacing-ac-capacitor.jpg
They are to help start the compressor, not the fan. Anything with a compressor will have one, like your fridge.
Ah, you're right. Got it mixed up with furnace fans which have smaller caps.
I'm assuming that it's some sort of component from the air conditioner, but damned if I know what it is. Looks like power plugs on it, and someone else mentioned "caps", so maybe a capacitor, though I wasn't aware that there was some kind of plug standard for large removable capacitors.
kagis
Yeah, this capacitor looks similar.
EDIT: Apparently air conditioners can use large capacitors:
https://www.amazon.com/Capacitor-Conditioner-Multi-Purpose-Capacitor-5-Warranty/dp/B092ZQ3Y3N
Capacitor for Air Conditioner 5 uf MFD 370 or 440 Volt VAC, Multi-Purpose Round Capacitor for AC Motor Run or Fan Motor Start or Condenser Straight
EDIT2: Oh, I bet I know what it's for, given the "Fan Motor Start" and what I assume is a misspelled "Condenser Start" text on the Amazon listing. Some hardware will draw a lot of juice when starting up. Laser printers are prone to this, for example. The references above are to mechanical things, moving components, and maybe one need extra power to overcome static friction, to get the parts in motion initially; once moving, they face (lesser) kinetic friction. One option is to just draw a ton of power from the line, but then that increases the peak power demands of a device. Another option, gentler on whatever circuit or external power source is providing the power, is to charge a capacitor for a bit and that'll let you create a big surge of available power for a moment without having to have higher peak demands on the external power source. Adds to device cost, but limits its peak draw.
Not quite- these motor capacitors provide a phase shift for a second set of windings. Without it, the motor will just hum and not rotate.
You are describing bulk or filter capacitors that go from supply to common on a DC circuit, parallel to the load. These motor caps are on AC and in series with the load.
At last it's an inexpensive and easy fix. Just buy another capacitor with the same specs and swap them out. Better yet, buy two! Keep one as a backup.
Don't buy an electrolytic capacitor as back up and store then over a long time. They will degrade and will be bad when you finally need them.
MKP/MKT capacitors are an exception since they don't degrade the same.
Yeah, I bought one to make sure that was the only problem. It just came back up so, now I'll pull the furnace apart and find what size it uses for the blower keep them both on hand.
They can blow on their own but chances are you have a junk contactor or a fan that draws too much amperage.
As much as that sucks, you clearly already know the fix and are working on it. Grats to you for having the skills bro. Please work safe, 2 phase electricity doesn't play around.
What am I looking at?
Motor capacitor for an A/C compressor. A $15 part that a service company is going to charge $400 for a guy missing most of his teeth to replace in 2 minutes.
When I used to fix cars for a dealership we would sometimes have the service advisor ask us to do work for free. "Come on, it'll just take you ten minutes!"
I'd tell them that they can do it themselves if it only takes ten minutes. "But I don't know how to do that!"
You're not just paying for the part, you're paying for the knowledge, time, and tools of the technician.
And to be completely honest, if you call an HVAC repair company, they're likely to do a whole PM cycle on it. Flush the condensate line and pan, clean the coils and the heat exchanger, replace the contactor if you have one, take the temperature differential to make sure the unit is operating reasonably well, replace the blower belt it's not direct drive. I PM the unit myself every spring and fall. I probably should have had eyes on that cap though.
Yep, if your condenser unit outside just won't turn on it's always a good idea to check this capacitor. I think it was just last year that I replaced the one in my unit installed in 2015. I went through a few capacitors with the ancient system before that!
Everyone should get awnings instead of bruteforcing the heat away. The insulation in your walls works both ways: it doesn't let heat out in the winter and inside in the summer. However, the sun's radiation passes through windows without much holding it back (without awnings or external curtains) and directly heats your home from the inside. So your house is basically a greenhouse when there's nothing covering your windows.
Good luck? I would just go to a convenience store and spend my there if this happened to me... also like 38c(~100f) right now here
Im sure OP knows what they are doing here but for those that don't, be careful with capacitors. Especially larger ones like these and bigger as they can hold quite a charge for some time after being unplugged. I personally watched someone shock the shit out of themselves with this exact type of AC capacitors. They were showing someone corrosion on the terminals, bridged the connection and ended up putting his arm through a wall from the jolt.