I'm fixing to build a frankenstein PA system using only the parts that i find for free or for a symbolic price, so i stumbled upon this speaker and was thinking this would be the subreddit that could probably help me ID it. Just from looking at it i'm like 95% sure its fake but theres always a slim (really slim) chance it might be legit

Here are the photos:

https://preview.redd.it/ka30kvat254c1.jpg?width=1493&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=56bfbfae20f31d28d1168ffea5a78670ed482406

https://preview.redd.it/mbe8wbeu254c1.jpg?width=1600&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f2e511558ce54247f7d57a050b223207f4790ef2

https://preview.redd.it/cu0wh1dv254c1.jpg?width=1600&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ca2ab848851f14778ca7b0c12c8e3735cf078195

Does anyone have experience with the Parts Express diy speaker kits (I'm looking at the c notes)? I'm just curious about the technical skills required, specifically soldering.

I'd love to hear your opinions on replacement earpads, specifically which types run cooler/hotter. Please let me know if there's a better place to post this.

Some things I'd like to know about earpad materials:

Leather (sheepskin) v.s. velour - which do you think runs hotter?

Velour v.s. micro-suede - which runs hotter?

Perforated (fake leather or sheepskin) v.s. velour - which hotter?

Thanks for any input you can give! I have been reading a lot of reviews and doing my own tests, but it's hard to figure out anything definitive.

Hi, I'm keeping a pretty low budget <55 for a 8" subwoofer driver for my ported box which is built identical to this

the driver's I found: Bassface indy.

Lanzar maxp80.

Gt audio Any others anyone knows of, or which of these are best?

Hi, I've got some 12" subwoofer boxes and I'm looking for a relatively cheap driver for them (under £50) I've found these two that are close to me and cheap. So far I'm leaning towards the vibe, mostly because of the brand name, however will it be bassier than the devine ba12 My amp can do 400w RMS

The vibe 12" 1200w peak driver: The devine ba12

So, I have a pair of the Sony GTK XB5 working well, it sits under my desk currently and I've noticed, listening to music from it while being under my desk isn't as good as having a clear path to reach my ears. This is obviously expected.

Now my plan is to tear it apart and make use of the current drivers and DSP and split the single unit into two. I've already tested and there are 2 Tweets and 2 Woofers. Doing a stereo test with the speakers away from each other, I can confirm the tweeters and woofers have their own channels. Hence I would like to split it into two separate units and keep it on my desk.

I’ve seen a lot of posts asking where to start with building custom speakers, and a lot of the time the answer is to use kits as building speakers with off the shelves drivers requires tuning and a lot of 'maths & science'. Is this tuning required even on a preprogrammed DSP as mine while changing the housing for the drivers? I’m looking to creating a two new speaker boxes for these drivers and suspect it will change the way it sound. Are there any auto adjusting programmes while factoring in I can’t modify the factory DSP.

Apologies if I’ve misused technical terms or got it completely wrong. I am new to this space and if I go forward with it, it’ll be my first. :)

Would it be possible to bypass the built in 120v power supply and power the amp using dc(battery). I assume it would be possible, but want to see if anyone else has done it. Using a Soundtown STPA-G500DSP

Thank you all so much for your help yesterday. I've made a number of design adjustments, and it definitely looks more manageable (at least to me).

I'm hoping to get approx 1 Watt at 8 Ohms out, using a 12v supply. The design is based off of a number of other amps, including the Leak 30, El Cheapo, Z30/50, etc. As I made a few adjustments yesterday, I also realized the topology is becoming closer to a 60s Fender Princeton, though using BJTs.

Stage 1: peaking current/gm-compensated Stage 2: buffer (emitter follower) Stage 3: quasi-complementary output, driven by a unity gain phase splitter

Hey folks! I'm trying to design a 1 watt guitar amp with quasi-complementary output, using a 12v supply. The quick sketch below is partly inspired by the Leak 30, as well as a book by Teemu Kyttälä on solid state amps, and some other reading. Not shown is the gm-compensated mirror on the preamp side.

My questions are as follows:

• do you think 12v is adequate for this circuit?
• is there anything that's just plain wrong here? Yes, it looks crude/simple, though I'm mostly asking whether I'm going to fry something.
• would it be worth my while adding a Zobel network at the output? I don't mind some dampening if the ends are justified.

This is a small guitar amp I want to use in my apartment; No more than a single watt is required. And I'm looking for an American-style sound with good distortion at the higher end.

Thanks in advance :)

So I am in a fantasy football league where our loser must hang a portrait (of anything the winner chooses) on their wall until the next season begins. Our loser is beginning to emerge and I had the idea of trying to create a portrait that somehow has a hidden speaker inside that we can play spooky sounds from. The loser is a superstitious and cowardly in nature, was thinking of hanging a creepy 1800s portrait of an old woman or a creepy clown. Then having a speaker randomly play someone whispering latin or softly weeping. Open to suggestions here.

However the challenges are as follows:

• Need to hide the speaker without the loser detecting it
• Need to make the speaker function on a timer possibly to make the sounds play AFTER it has entered the home
• Need to ensure the speakers don't lose power before it has entered the home

No idea if this is the right subreddit but would love some sound eggheads to point me in the right direction.

I bought these for very cheap knowing they may not work. They are the Rockville Power Gig 225K. I can’t get them serviced locally, and rockville won’t service them either. Looks like i’m going to have to give it a shot myself.

One of the speakers is active and has all the inputs, the other speaker is passive and connects via a speakon cable. (Which I don’t have so I haven’t been able to see if the passive speaker works)

The active speaker powers on, and the screen on the back works and I’m able to navigate the menus. However I haven’t been able to get any sound. I’ve tried every input, including the bluetooth connection. (which successfully connects)

2 Things of note: When I power the speaker on, after about 2-4 seconds I hear a loud pop/crack, from what I’ve seen online this is normal? Also, there is a fan on the unit, presumably for the built in amplifier. It doesn’t turn on/spin. I’m not sure if this means anything, or the fan is possibly heat activated or signal activated.

I’ve opened up the active speaker to possibly check connections. I have no experience working with electronics, so I was watching some youtube videos where they repair active pa speakers. The main amp/board has a lot of connections, some of which seem pretty fragile and soldered on, so I can’t completely remove the unit, or even pull it very far from the cabinet/housing. Unsure of how to proceed.

I’m thinking I’m probably going to have to get a multimeter and a soldering iron and do more research to see if I can narrow down what’s causing the problem, or I may just have to give up and somehow get rid of these massive speakers. $100 wasted, but that’s on me. I’m hoping I can get them running though!

Not even sure if this is the right place to be asking for advice, but there’s everything I know. Any advice appreciated.

What is the best bookshelf kit? I am looking to make a LCR set of bookshelf speakers for my bedroom. Would like to stay around $150 or less each. They will be paired with a subwoofer for a 3.1 system.

I have plenty of DIY build experience. My last build was a pair of Full Martys using full MDF sheets so not afraid of the work.

Hey guys! I stumbled upon the Fane 12-250TC full range drivers and wanted to make a good old bass-reflex enclosure for them.

I also know I want a "boombox alignment" so I don't have to use an equalizer as much. A good bump from 30/40 up up to 150Hz is wanted.

Tuning frequency will be 45Hz.

• With 155L: 45Hz has +2dB, highest is 60Hz at +3.5dB and f3 is at 36,5Hz.

• With 220-230L: 45Hz sits at +4.5dB, 50Hz even at +5dB, and f3 is still 36Hz. That is pretty much +2.5dB down low across the board.

Here's a WinISD-screenshot for visualization

Will the +2-3db down low be noticeable?

seems to be a MUCH better place, just sayin'

i am attempting to share this and being sabotaged left and right, WTF.

i promise you if you SEARCH for this: GkOgD3t5g0k

And then fast forward to the 6:30 time stamp, you will see some open baffle show and tell that i found to be absolutely fascinating. Thank you and kudos to Perry.

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Hello I'm planning on building this subwoofer . It says it's optimized for 18TLW3000 , but in planssystemes.notion.site where I've found the plans, says the recommended drivers are B&C 18SW100 . There is a big price difference between these two drivers, so I would like to know if the B&C are suitable. Thanks!

Favourite test track

Got sent here from r/budgetaudiophiles after looking to replace my Klipsh bookshelf speakers. I love music but know very little about good speakers currently. Im looking for sources that have all the parts i need for a good bookshelf build and possibly a sub. Basically a kit or something to help me decide on parts. I am an engineer in the electrical field (granted i work on data centers) so I’m not a total noob with electronics.

Also does the enclosure material make a big difference? I see a lot of mdf and wood that look like .5-.75” thick. I have a laser cutter that can cut up to .25” wood that i would love to use if the material thickness is less important.

I want to build (or buy) a small headphones amp that I can stick to the back of an Xbox controller. This is because my Sennheiser HD650s will not work well with the headphones output from it. Would it be possible to use the USB-C port on the controller for power and the headphone jack as a source?

I wanted to buy something like this, but I can't find anything near as small as it and it is no longer produced:

https://theheadphonelist.com/nuforce-mobile-music-pump-mmp-review/

Any suggestions?

Hey folks, I'm really new to this and realizing the more study the more am out of my league here. This is definitely not what went to school for 😅

I'm hoping to get 120-150mW out using this little circuit and 6*AA batteries. Do you think this is possible? Would you change/fix anything?

Any/all help is appreciated 😊

hi,

i am looking to build my own speakers - Im currently leaning towards "Dinas" as I want monitor speakers with a boomy bass, but I am a little daunted by the crossover build.

before I buy the plans etc. is it possible just to buy an out the box ready to go crossover

https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-XO3W-375-3K-3-Way-Crossover-375-3-000-Hz-260-150?quantity=1

something like this? what is the cons of using a preassembled xover

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sorry If this has been covered before but I couldnt find any information on the same.

thanks

Hi All,

I have just received a delivery of 2nd hand, and according to sticker, made in 2014 (:D) Crown DSi 2000.

I plugged it in (only AC) and powered it on to see that input meters are fluctuating into 2nd light region (1st is labelled as ready so the 2nd is first of input signal being present as such). Please take a loo at the vid on YT I made.

There is nothing but AC cabled plugged in into it.

I opened it up and it basically looks like brand new - even fan is squeaky clean. Either it was thoroughly cleaned, but in fairness I have cleaned my share of electronics in life and to achieve that level of cleanness on fan blades is some achievement.

​

Squeaky clean Fan can be seen on top of this pic.

I more inclined to think it is some kind of refurb? Hard to say.

Anyway - is it faulty, is it normal, is it expected? I will not be able to test it with speakers for another 5 days but if it is an obvious fault then I would like to know to contact the seller.

I appreciate you comments!

YT vid: https://youtube.com/watch?v=HsPMDXCAHOE&si=0lBW5TOQM6AUobyy

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I am helping my dad with a 34 foot center console boat project and he asked me to take care of the sound system. These is the equipment I have bought so far:

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For speakers:

- 2 ds18 6.5" 100 Watts rms, 4 Ohms speakers. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XYGMX1M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- 2 pyle 8" 150 Watts rms, 4 Ohms speakers. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N5UWD2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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For subwoofers:

- 1 infinity 10" 250 Watts rms, 4 Ohms subwoofer. https://www.rocktheboatmarinestereo.com/product/infinity-inf1022mlw-marine-subwoofer/

- 1 fusion 12" 800 Watts rms, 4 Ohms subwoofer. https://www.rocktheboatmarinestereo.com/product/fusion-sg-sl122sp2-marine-subwoofer/

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For amps:

- Power Acoustik MA12300D 900 Watts rms. 1 channel for the 12" subwoofer. https://www.rocktheboatmarinestereo.com/product/power-acoustik-ma12300d-marine-amplifier/

- 1950 Watts 2-Ohms Max Power 225 Watts x 4 RMS 2-Ohms. 5 channels for the 4 speakers and the 10" subwoofer.

https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-Audio-MR1950-Bridgeable-Amplifier/dp/B00BQOO5BY

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I need to connect these to a stereo controller and my dad wants it to have zones (ideally one for the front, one for the back, and one for each subwoofer) in order to control the sound of each one separately. Any ideas on how to connect them? How would that work? In addition, I think we will be buying four more speakers and one more amp (recommendations for specific speakers/amplifiers are greatly appreciated). How could I also connect these extra speakers to the stereo?

Anything helps, I am unsure of what I'm doing.

Thank you!